
Oh no...my rear end...its gay!
Moderator: Moderators
Dunc has run in the 9s on leaf springs so Caltracs are probably a way off, spend the money on the engine, gearbox, prop and rear end first. Optimise your set up then work upwards from there.......Don't forget to factor in some slicks or sticky streets....
Last edited by Kev on Tue Nov 06, 07 11:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
<center>
The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
The name is Kev, nowadays known as Kevvy or Pommie C***!</center>
- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
Dan. Your rear end gear depends completely on what you do to the engine. You are working ass-backwards.
The idea that you can add one bit of a time over years is a stupid and misguided one yet everyone tries to do it at first. Been guilty of that myself many years ago. Then you wonder why you are actually going SLOWER.
So work out what you are doing with the engine first. Match the cam, intake, heads and torque converter. They all need to work at the same rpms. Then match your rear gear to the rpm range your engine is using.
The idea that you can add one bit of a time over years is a stupid and misguided one yet everyone tries to do it at first. Been guilty of that myself many years ago. Then you wonder why you are actually going SLOWER.

So work out what you are doing with the engine first. Match the cam, intake, heads and torque converter. They all need to work at the same rpms. Then match your rear gear to the rpm range your engine is using.

Dave..... well said
I've spoken to Dan on this and there could be 2 seperate plans going on here.
Plan 1... short to medium term...... 3.55's
Plan 2..... long term 4.10's
you could fit 4.10's now but that's not quite right for the combo you want to acheive in the short/med term, this will be a compromise
3.55's will be right now but not long term
best way is both, it's only a R&P change later, ditch the 2bbl, have some fun with the 383 and plan the rest at your leisure

I've spoken to Dan on this and there could be 2 seperate plans going on here.
Plan 1... short to medium term...... 3.55's
Plan 2..... long term 4.10's
you could fit 4.10's now but that's not quite right for the combo you want to acheive in the short/med term, this will be a compromise
3.55's will be right now but not long term
best way is both, it's only a R&P change later, ditch the 2bbl, have some fun with the 383 and plan the rest at your leisure
unless you just want to put in the best set that was an option for ya car...factory in theory has already given that set the OK
doesn't perhaps fit with the 13 second plan but how many weeks months years off is that going to come to fruition
and can you set up a set of gears yourself?? change em every month if you want..ive never done it but ive read up a lot and am collecting the necessary tools to have a go but
mines got 2.92:1 gears in an axle that no one wants so its
1) cheap to get gearsets suregrips and axles
2) i have 3 axles to play with
its supposed to have 3.23:1 gears with the option of 3.5:1 gears
i'm putting in some 3.45:1 gears (the modern equivelent of the 3.5s orginally available, new tooth shape and stronger seemingly).
i've got a set of 3.9:1 gears but they only cost me $100 so was worth picking them up but i won't put them in my main axle
i could put in 4.11:1 or 5.3:1 gears but the torque would then be way too much for the bearings in the housing, the car would be undrivable and i'd run out of puff by 1/8 mile
the 3.9s will go in a crappy single spinner for testing (is this fun or not??) once if ever i descide to change my cam
mines a 4 speed manual so it will be easier if a little annoying in traffic to drive with a woefully mis matched setup i.e i can ruin a clutch or two to avoid stalling it.
and dave is spot on. I always go about things backwards and it ends up costing more in the long run.
however i have now got better balancer so i don't need to clench my bottocks so tightly when i take it up to 6000RPM so a gear set change may happen sooner not later.
Dave
doesn't perhaps fit with the 13 second plan but how many weeks months years off is that going to come to fruition
and can you set up a set of gears yourself?? change em every month if you want..ive never done it but ive read up a lot and am collecting the necessary tools to have a go but
mines got 2.92:1 gears in an axle that no one wants so its
1) cheap to get gearsets suregrips and axles
2) i have 3 axles to play with
its supposed to have 3.23:1 gears with the option of 3.5:1 gears
i'm putting in some 3.45:1 gears (the modern equivelent of the 3.5s orginally available, new tooth shape and stronger seemingly).
i've got a set of 3.9:1 gears but they only cost me $100 so was worth picking them up but i won't put them in my main axle
i could put in 4.11:1 or 5.3:1 gears but the torque would then be way too much for the bearings in the housing, the car would be undrivable and i'd run out of puff by 1/8 mile
the 3.9s will go in a crappy single spinner for testing (is this fun or not??) once if ever i descide to change my cam
mines a 4 speed manual so it will be easier if a little annoying in traffic to drive with a woefully mis matched setup i.e i can ruin a clutch or two to avoid stalling it.
and dave is spot on. I always go about things backwards and it ends up costing more in the long run.
however i have now got better balancer so i don't need to clench my bottocks so tightly when i take it up to 6000RPM so a gear set change may happen sooner not later.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Gearing UP
Hi Dan,
Get yourself an A-body, it will save you a bunch of money in the long run. Only pullin ya leg.
13's in very doable in a Charger, even wif a 383, the factory hemi cars used to run mid 13's in 69!!!
My mate Jack used to run 13's in his 'STOCKish' 68 383 Charger when I was still in nappies! With this in mind, I would keep well away from gears above 3.90, as fuel is over one pound a gallon, if you haven't noticed.
Don't get into-deep wif mad motors and stuff, Chargers are for the Street, not for the Strip.
Thats my tenpenneth, Baccy.
Get yourself an A-body, it will save you a bunch of money in the long run. Only pullin ya leg.
13's in very doable in a Charger, even wif a 383, the factory hemi cars used to run mid 13's in 69!!!
My mate Jack used to run 13's in his 'STOCKish' 68 383 Charger when I was still in nappies! With this in mind, I would keep well away from gears above 3.90, as fuel is over one pound a gallon, if you haven't noticed.
Don't get into-deep wif mad motors and stuff, Chargers are for the Street, not for the Strip.
Thats my tenpenneth, Baccy.
Re: Gearing UP
Unless your using an O/D unit don't go lower than 3:9s , cost a fortune in fuel , not comfortable to drive & puts loads of stress on the motor , i would say 3:55s motorway driving , or 4:10s with O/D unit.baccaruda wrote: I would keep well away from gears above 3.90, as fuel is over one pound a gallon, if you haven't noticed.
Don't get into-deep wif mad motors and stuff, Chargers are for the Street, not for the Strip.
If i had me time again , would have two cars , one for strip , one for street , should've taken the advise that was given to me many a time.


- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
Depending on the cam and the speed you drive on motorways at you can actually increase your mpg with lower gears in the diff. It all depends at what rpm you make best torque at. Because that is the rpm you want to drive at.
You also want to make sure you are above the stall speed of the converter.
So it is all down to what the engine is doing that dictates the rear gear.
You also want to make sure you are above the stall speed of the converter.
So it is all down to what the engine is doing that dictates the rear gear.