Will´s 1968 Dodge Charger

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Wed Jul 11, 12 12:59 pm

74challenger318 wrote:
Roger wrote:How have you managed to Zinc plate the heater motor impeller. Its made of plastic?.
but the fag packet plated ok

Brilliant!

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Wed Jul 11, 12 1:04 pm

Roger wrote:How have you managed to Zinc plate the heater motor impeller. Its made of plastic?

Yes, any thing that is pitted prior to plating will look even worse after plating.

Its just like painting - its all in the prep.

Mine is made of steel

And fag packet plated fine and they only cost 3.50 pound a pack in germany

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Jul 16, 12 7:23 pm

Front axle came out ok

Back axle found another Bananarama! hole that i missed with the welder so back to the zinc shop

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... CF0702.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... CF0701.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... CF0708.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... CF0709.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... CF0706.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Mon Jul 16, 12 10:46 pm

You need a tig welder Will. Much easier to get hole free welds.

If you dont mind me saying, im not covinced by the zinc idea. I think you may be dissapointed in how it looks a few months down the road. Dont get me wrong, it will be doing its job, (protecting the steel)but zinc is sacraficial, and starts that process straight away.

If it were me, id paint over it.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Jul 17, 12 7:08 am

Roger wrote:You need a tig welder Will. Much easier to get hole free welds.

If you dont mind me saying, im not covinced by the zinc idea. I think you may be dissapointed in how it looks a few months down the road. Dont get me wrong, it will be doing its job, (protecting the steel)but zinc is sacraficial, and starts that process straight away.

If it were me, id paint over it.

I do have a tig welder just brought it and learning how to use it. Was worried about the amount of heat thats why i used a mig to weld axle brace.

Zinc will it wont it last ?????

Shopping trolleys , mildon sump , Motor bike chain.

Anyone got a mildon sump pan yellow zinc plated thats looks Bananarama! ???

Time will tell

74challenger318 · Post by **74challenger318** » Tue Jul 17, 12 3:06 pm

shopping trolleys are Zinc Nickel plated which is hard wearing, you stuff looks like Zinc then Yellow passivated, works better on brand new steel, you will find that the parts that were rusty will go first and 6 months down the line everything will be dull and rust forming, you will have to strip it all down again and end up painting it all,

be carefull also with spring steel as the process used makes these brittle, you may have to get your springs retempered?

74challenger318 · Post by **74challenger318** » Tue Jul 17, 12 3:11 pm

What is Hydrogen Embrittlement and why do I want to relieve it?
Hydrogen Embrittlement (HE) refers to the increased internal stresses caused by hydrogen within the grain structure of ferrous articles. HE is not exclusive to electroplating let alone zinc electroplating, but can be caused by several different metal finishing and related processes. Under AS 1789-2003 Electroplated zinc (electrogalvanized) coatings on ferrous articles (batch process), heat treatment pre/post-plating is specified for steels with a maximum tensile of 1000+ MPa. The heat treatment processes are similar to general stress relief heat treatment processes for steels, but the focus is on allowing hydrogen time to escape from below the zinc plating layer.

If you have what is referred to as a ‘high’ tensile steel (1000+ MPa), it is accepted that the effects of HE will be more critical. The effects are basically premature brittle failure of high tensile steel. Given your design calls for a high tensile steel, then it is also assumed that the tensile is critical for the design otherwise any grade of mild steel would have sufficed? AS 1789 also relates HE to hardness (including surfaced hardened parts) if tensile is not easily obtainable. The harder the part, the higher the tensile. Roughly speaking 1000+ MPa in steels relates to HRC 34, or 340 HV, or 325 HB. Remember that most hardness measurements can be compared across types i.e. 352 HB = 69.3 HRA = 110.0 HRB = 37.9 HRC = 53.8 HRD = 372 HV = 51 HS.

heres the rest of the article http://www.cpplating.com.au/?page_id=114

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Jul 17, 12 6:40 pm

The plating on Milodon pans goes flat and ropey looking in time, zinc passivate will not look bright and shiny for long.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Jul 17, 12 7:50 pm

Well thats pi55ed on my strawberries

I quite like the zinc look

Q. Could i paint a clear 2k over it or would i have to primmer/paint it ???

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Tue Jul 17, 12 8:33 pm

autofetish wrote:Well thats pi55ed on my strawberries

I quite like the zinc look

Q. Could i paint a clear 2k over it or would i have to primmer it first ??

bollock a load of heavy 2k clear on it see how it goes,

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Tue Jul 17, 12 10:10 pm

Problem is, that will highlight the pitted areas. But at least it will give it some protection.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Jul 17, 12 10:40 pm

Anymore before i go and buy 2k clear paint and paint over zinc

below are a few pictures i just got sent from paint shop

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... AG0230.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... AG0229.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... AG0226.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... AG0221.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

74challenger318 · Post by **74challenger318** » Wed Jul 18, 12 4:39 pm

autofetish wrote:Anymore before i go and buy 2k clear paint and paint over zinc

Yes stick some plasticiser in with it, will make it a bit more flexible and durable to chipping

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Thu Jul 19, 12 12:56 am

autofetish wrote:Anymore before i go and buy 2k clear paint and paint over zinc

I think the lacquer will help to protect the zinc, but I for one wouldn't do it.

It's your car, at the end of the day, so the choice is yours, but to me, it looks as though it will gives the car the appearance of a 'Delhi Hot Rodder' ...

I'm not knocking you, I think you have done an unbeliveable job & gone about it in an ingenious ways, tackled jobs on your own & made equipment to do it

autofetish wrote:Below are a few pictures i just got sent from paint shop

Looking good

db · Post by db » Thu Jul 19, 12 10:24 am

You could always powdercoat it all black...?

I'l get me coat