Mopar Muscle Association UK

Sad news after all the time and money you have spent Dave, onwards and upwards mate. It all sent to make us all stronger..............So they say.

Hope there isn't too much damage.

Look at it this way,you have about 350 days to fix it and 14 to test it before you can hurt it again next year

next year!!!

needs to be done for the HRDs

Its using up my new Diff time

was supposed to have complete engine 4 speed and suregrip package for HRDs

can't be helped

shoulda bit the bullet and lugged built motor to engin dyno and had run in done there

Dave

Very sorry to hear your engine woes.What did you find when you did the cylinder leakage test Dave ?

nothing yet

need to get onto it

waiting for the leak down tester to arrive, should be today but first friday of the month is beer drinking friday

and due to some clacky noises have dismantled half the rockers

the 4 i didn't rebuild last time feel horrible....they didn't whan swapped off a motor with standard springs onto this one 3 weeks ago but they do now

amazing what a bit of paranoia about everything triggers

so they will get new trunnions and needle bearings. hardend steel trunninions shouldn't show marking from needle rollers and these 4 do....they have lifetime warranty but as i was not the orginal purchaser can't leverage that

the rest that i rebuilt in 2006/7 got a clean up and were put back together. they seem fine

yellaterra in oz good company to deal with answer all emails within 12 hours...just good you know, actively interested in how well their product is doing how old it is whats it been exposed to, used for etc whats failed etc (nout that wasn't cuased by the previous owner rebuilding them with all the trunnions backwards causing side forces due to bad fitting that destroyed some of the bearings hence need for previous re build, these 4 seem ok then)
quite expensive for a fat end rebuild kit so am just doing the 4 that need it, if i had to do the roller tips as well it would be more

off on my hols soon so i'm thinking leave the lot till i come back. nobody can nick it in this dismantled state

Dave

sorry to hear about your engine woes

iv'e just been playing with a Lynx Jaguar XKSS that had the 152 Weber carbs on. it had been set up very rich otherwise it would spit and hold back, it had large idle jets (65F8). it would then it would knock out spark plugs when driven in trafic.

i ended up drilling extra progression holes which meant i could go down on the idle jetting (to 55F8) and fit smaller pump jets (from 45 to 35). there was quite a bit of throttle movement before the butterfly got to the first progression hole so i drilled a hole slightly larger than the first one closer to the butterfly position at rest.

worked a treat and transformed the way it now drives. (it was a bit of a gamble as there is no going back once drilled but nothing else worked)

Bozwell wrote:it was a bit of a gamble as there is no going back once drilled

Epoxy is wonderful stuff.

we'll have to see on the weber front

as i appear to have very big leak on 2 and 3

am thinking rings

no hissing in the inlet

lots in the crank case

given that i was careful during install

i didn't hear any knocking

i'm guessing the ring gaps were too small.....

and perhaps hotter than the guage inidated (looked fine, but slight glow to headers) when i ran in the cam.

damn and blast it

as they say

Headers always get red hot when running in.

OK completed my leak down testing

Cylinder 1 2 and 3 leaking 45-50% (mid to bottom of yellow moderate)

Cylinder 4 ,5, 6 30 % leaking bottom of the Green Good)


all cylinders if re tested can show leakage up to 60% which is tending to wards the Red %^&*^$ section

so the more compressed air you push through the worse it gets.

erm

broken rings

bore wash and very poor ring seal?

the wrong piston rings...summit got it wrong once (they just didn't fit) their tech guy suggested another set. these fit the piston but are narrower between outer and inner dimater of the ring...



i'll pull it out

What a bummer Dave.
Hope you get to the bottom of it and get it sorted soon.

Dave,
you should be able to hear where the air is leaking, it will give you a good idea what's up before you strip it.

Past the rings/ holed piston ect- heard through oil filler/dipstick tube
past the valves- heard carb or exhaust pipe
head gasket or other breach of the waterway- heard through the rad cap

Dave wrote:I blame the bloke who can't tighten nuts and bolts myself.

Tell him ......Righty Tighty.....Lefty Loosey

Dave999 wrote:OK completed my leak down testing

Cylinder 1 2 and 3 leaking 45-50% (mid to bottom of yellow moderate)

Cylinder 4 ,5, 6 30 % leaking bottom of the Green Good)


all cylinders if re tested can show leakage up to 60% which is tending to wards the Red %^&*^$ section

so the more compressed air you push through the worse it gets.

erm

broken rings

bore wash and very poor ring seal?

the wrong piston rings...summit got it wrong once (they just didn't fit) their tech guy suggested another set. these fit the piston but are narrower between outer and inner dimater of the ring...



i'll pull it out

You sure you doing that right Dave? Those are very bad numbers. Over 10 - 15% and id be having the engine out.

Got to ask, but you have set the gauge to read zero and only JUST zero when not connected to anything? Not got the pressure to high?

guage is cheap one 45 quid

guage is zero on both when not connected

guage instructions say

you should see the flow guage reach "set" area at somewhere between 15 and 20 PSI on pressure guage

and it does

so i use the regulator to set the flow gauge to the SET area

check that i have not gone over 20 on the pressure gauge in doing so

lock off the regulator on the guage set

have the compressor set anywhere between 45 -80 as per intructions

wind cylinder over to the top

it has no rockers on it at the mo.

it has no side cover on at the mo

so valves are shut regardless

wind in the adaptor hand tight against lightly oiled rubber seal

plug in the gauge

flow guage falls quickly and settles out at a poor reading

no hiss in the inlet

no hiss at the exhaust

noise from crank case

wet finger near any vent at the open side of the engine gets cold

there is air flow through crank case.


i specified pistons and asked summit to look up rings in catalogue and supply

they supplied the wrong ones

i phoned, played hell and they sent me a set that fitted that they assured me were correct

thus
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/s ... make/dodge


with these in the correct 20 thou over size

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/s ... /overview/


bore was checked by engineer for taper
he then sized by bore an hone out as per sealedpower/speedpro spec for low expansion coated piston. and labelled up the box in reagrds to piston position

rings were gapped based on 4 inch bore becasue my pistons have had the top edge profiled the top ring is nearer to the Fire than normal it will get a little hotter then normal

its a 3.93 inch bore

18 thou top 20 thou next

used a spring steel band compressor

oiled and tightend, adjusted so it didn't scroll out..sqaure in thne top of the bore taper

mallet hanle to pop em in..


ive done something wrong in my rush for the Nats but until i pull it out i won't know what...

maybe the piston pins have come out and scored the bores.


rod ends were sized for the pins and the pins pressed in by the machine shop

Mmm

Dave