700 double pumper on a road car

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Sun Aug 17, 14 10:57 pm

Thanks again for your help today Mick. Top bloke.

My neighbors loved me today

up and down the road

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Sun Aug 17, 14 10:59 pm

Did Mick meet Winston Jon ?

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Sun Aug 17, 14 11:08 pm

Mossy68 wrote:Did Mick meet Winston Jon ?

Yup.

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Sun Aug 17, 14 11:18 pm

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Sun Aug 17, 14 11:22 pm

And the 3 dogs and 7 or 8 pups.
Mick

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Sun Aug 17, 14 11:26 pm

Mick wrote:And the 3 dogs and 7 or 8 pups.
Mick

And you still managed to concentrate on a car !
Better man than me !

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Mon Aug 18, 14 6:55 am

Latest update on page 7. Any opinions most welcome.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Aug 18, 14 8:54 am

Three things come to mind.

Are the wires from the pick-up in the distributor connected the right way around? If you switch them around and the dizzy is now too far advanced it was right so swap it back.
If the dizzy seem very retarded then it was wrong and now you just need to re-set the initial.

You did tune the idle mixture for max rpm/vacuum at idle IN GEAR didn't you?

When you put the car in gear from neutral how far do the rpms drop? They should only drop slightly. If they drop a lot you need a higher stall torque converter.

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Mon Aug 18, 14 3:21 pm

Dave wrote:Three things come to mind.

Are the wires from the pick-up in the distributor connected the right way around? If you switch them around and the dizzy is now too far advanced it was right so swap it back.
If the dizzy seem very retarded then it was wrong and now you just need to re-set the initial.

They are installed the same as they were on the car, not sure if this is correct. Can try swapping them over...

You did tune the idle mixture for max rpm/vacuum at idle IN GEAR didn't you?

Yeah.

When you put the car in gear from neutral how far do the rpms drop? They should only drop slightly. If they drop a lot you need a higher stall torque converter.

About 100 rpm

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Aug 18, 14 4:13 pm

100rpm is a tad more than I would like but should still be OK.

If it's idling at over 900rpm (in neutral) then you probably are not on the idle circuits any more. Put a vac gauge on the timed vac port on the carb where the vac advance would hook up. If there is any vac present the throttle blades to opened too far.

If it will not idle with the throttle blades closed enough then either you don't have enough initial timing or need to drill a hole in each throttle blade.

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Mon Aug 18, 14 5:38 pm

Its the only place its happy really though...

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Aug 18, 14 6:28 pm

GJUK wrote:Its the only place its happy really though...

Yes because it isn't tuned correctly.

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Mon Aug 18, 14 6:59 pm

Dave wrote:
GJUK wrote:Its the only place its happy really though...
Yes because it isn't tuned correctly.

Okay Dave, thanks for your help.
I will try what you suggest, Mick mentioned I might need to drill the throttle blades.

GJUK · Post by **GJUK** » Mon Aug 18, 14 7:45 pm

Just started it now, from cold.
Started fine, gave it some gentle revs to get it warm and idle on its own and it went in to its special mode again, stuttering and idling terrible. Rev it and it clears...

Smelt a lot of unburnt fuel.

It is running at 0.3 unburnt vacumm (I think the units are bar) at idle. When cold. This was taken from this area of the carb.

Anyway, here is a video of the car in Park and at idle. which was about 1k rpm. (squashed video but you can make out the number just)

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=vzkkz9&s=8#.U_JJmmOfNc8

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Aug 18, 14 10:52 pm

Can you just borrow a carb from somone local? has Mick got a simple 600vs knocking about. At least that way you could eliminate the carb before diving into the ignition etc..
I'm sure that carb is a wrong un.