Mopar Muscle Association UK

Good Stuff.

On an OZ car or RHD Chrysler the motor is off set 2.5" away from the driver, and that gives a few challenges!

Pete wrote: Sun Jun 28, 20 7:49 pm Good Stuff.

On an OZ car or RHD Chrysler the motor is off set 2.5" away from the driver, and that gives a few challenges!

Yes since I started this project, I found out some strange stuff ,, engines not in the middle of the bay
I was worried about 10mm
From reading , an offset engine is good for your joints

CV joints

In any Chrysler the motor is offset to the RHS of the car when you sit in the Drivers seat, matters not if its US or Oz

which makes Australian cars even harder to deal with, as a RHD car needs it steering box brake booster etc on the side of the motor with less space.

the driver seat is in a narrower space, if you leave enough space for the door aperture mounted handbrake there is no space for the seat belt anchor/buckle to fit up the side of the tunnel and allow the seat to move. so they used long stalks and mounted the left buckle to the rear right foot well and the right to the left and had them cross the tunnel and lie forward.
you still practically drag your knuckles up the door when pulling the hand brake. only benefit really is US buddy seats and brackets fit no offset necessary on them.

a slant 6 is a bit of a problem as you can imagine, as it slants right over all of this stuff when its in a RHD but not when in a LHD
i.e the aussies engineered themselves a problem with a 6 cylinder that you'd only expect with a massive V8 squeezed into an A body in the US

the Aussies used the US mid 60s A body small tunnel floor pressing. they split and hammered it, welded in a cross to the flare in the tunnel on the production line if they wanted to fit a 727 or the local 4 speed manual borg warner. was cheaper than re tooling for a more modern Abody 727 sized tunnel.
Aussie cross member for the rear of the trans also has the indent in 1 side so you cant fit the rear mount member backwards something else to indicate its 60s origin all the way through the 70s , you can fit spool mount from post 73 US a body but it needs spacers on the left side

as such aussie cars have the driver and the motor biased to be on the same side, US cars have the driver on the opposite side, (sensible) along with the battery to act as counter balance.

either way the whole offset appears to have been done to help counteract the moments of force trying to twist the axle, when under load,
left side longer that right side on a Chrysler shorter leaver on the right compresses spring less under acceleration

offsetting the engine avoids having to put extra leaves in the spring on the right hand side although particularly big motors did still involve doing this i think.

Australians who have fitted ford falcon or Nissan axles with disk brakes and equal (or closer) length axles both sides have had few issues other than a bit of clearance necessary. provided the up and down offset at the joints and the left to right offset at the joints in the tailshaft are equal at the front and rear it all worked smoothly and silently just gives you a bit more measuring to do with your protractor


Dave

Dave999 wrote: Tue Jun 25, 19 3:05 pm
I think you need to buy a roller bearing for a 318 or 360m magnum
and a roller bearing for a 2000 ford mustang

press the roller bearing out of each and put the mustang bearing in the mopar magnum bearing holder and whack it into the boss of the crankshaft flange where the converter spigot sits on an auto that should work.

If it's not deep enough a longer roller might be necessary, I can't see how far the end of the input shaft sits into that area in the end of the crank. I used an adapter that put the end of the spline level with the frication face of the flywheel...that might have resulted in not enough space for the plate or indeed a need to push the bearing back a bit in its boss.
Dave

Thanks for the advice again Dave
But I have a problem
I did as you said and bought the two spigot bearings, a Dodge Dekota and a 2000 Mustang spigot bearings.
The Dodge bearing retainer fits great,the problem is the mustang bearing is too small for the Dodge retainer.

Have I done something wrong?


TiBBs

just go to your local bearing supplier with the dodge bearing 'carrier/sleeve' and the ford roller bearing (as well as the gearbox input shaft size) and they supply the right one.
choice 2 is get a local engineering firm to turn a new bearing 'carrier/sleeve' to fit your dodge crank and the ford bearing.
either will work, neil.

mygasser wrote: Thu Aug 13, 20 6:23 pm just go to your local bearing supplier with the dodge bearing 'carrier/sleeve' and the ford roller bearing (as well as the gearbox input shaft size) and they supply the right one.
choice 2 is get a local engineering firm to turn a new bearing 'carrier/sleeve' to fit your dodge crank and the ford bearing.
either will work, neil.

Thanks for the input Neil
Once back at work, I can make a carrier. But I really want as many parts as possible as just plug ang play, rather than making bespoke parts, if possible

TIB3300 wrote: Fri Aug 14, 20 8:42 am

mygasser wrote: Thu Aug 13, 20 6:23 pm just go to your local bearing supplier with the dodge bearing 'carrier/sleeve' and the ford roller bearing (as well as the gearbox input shaft size) and they supply the right one.
choice 2 is get a local engineering firm to turn a new bearing 'carrier/sleeve' to fit your dodge crank and the ford bearing.
either will work, neil.

Thanks for the input Neil
Once back at work, I can make a carrier. But I really want as many parts as possible as just plug ang play, rather than making bespoke parts, if possible

once you've made it you only need an off the shelf ford bearing any time it needs replacing. the carrier you'll only ever need once.
neil.

Thats odd

let me check again what i have...

apologies if i have mislead

i'll do a bit of digging

"have you done something wrong"...no its more likely i have been mislead. apologies again

Dave

[/quote]
once you've made it you only need an off the shelf ford bearing any time it needs replacing. the carrier you'll only ever need once.
neil.
[/quote]

Yes you rite

Dave999 wrote: Mon Aug 17, 20 11:03 am Thats odd
let me check again what i have...
apologies if i have mislead
i'll do a bit of digging
"have you done something wrong"...no its more likely i have been mislead. apologies again
Dave

Thanks Dave
Dont stress youve helped me enough
It was only a few quid and I have more things to order from Rock

On with the hydraulic clutch conversion.
Well there's lots to learn before you just drill the pedal and put a master and slave cylinder on

Bore size'' stroke'' hydraulic ratios'' leverage point'' ect.

I like to keep things simple and cheap if I can ..

After lots of research I went for a Land-rover series 2A master cylinderthat has a 3/4 bore and a Rang-rover slave cylinder that has a 7/8th's bore.

I did make a set-up with the two piped up using some with clamps and a bit of break pipe ,, Yeah it worked, " forgot to take a picture .

Found the point on the clutch pedal that gave me the 35mm of movement needed to move the slave cylinder 24-26mm to release the clutch plate, made up a new push rod with metric threads and a rose joint end.
Drilled a new hole in the bulkhead and fabricated some new fixing points for the master cylinder.

The last picture is it all together as a trial fit

New engine mounts made and a coat of satin black

Land Rover stuff is great for all sorts of applications, because it is so simple and basic. Ive just used a series 2 exhaust mount as an electric fuel pump bracket on my 1951 Dodge M43.

MattH wrote: Fri Aug 28, 20 3:11 pm Land Rover stuff is great for all sorts of applications, because it is so simple and basic. Ive just used a series 2 exhaust mount as an electric fuel pump bracket on my 1951 Dodge M43.

Yes £30 for both to the door
Or you could buy this https://lmr.com/item/MD-9100052K/mustan ... line-79-93

$624.99

Nice work, the master tucks nicely behind the servo.