Mopar Muscle Association UK

i really don't get the obsession with the idle. are you really going to plan you're whole engine build around a lumpy idle sound?????
neil.

kma176 wrote: Fri Sep 18, 20 11:28 am

TIB3300 wrote: Fri Sep 18, 20 11:13 am

kma176 wrote: Wed Sep 16, 20 11:35 am

I've got the Lunati Voodoo in my 340 stroker and very pleased - has enough lumpy idle so you know its got a cam and had no problem with Vac for the brakes I think it was the 723 but if your interested I will check the numbers !

"Check the numbers "
Yes please if you could.

Dont suppose you could make a short vid of your tickover ?

The Cam is a 10200703 Voodoo - if you pm me your mobile number I can whats-app a video to you

I dont have whats- app, is there another way?

mygasser wrote: Sun Sep 20, 20 7:56 pm i really don't get the obsession with the idle. are you really going to plan you're whole engine build around a lumpy idle sound?????
neil.

Morning Neil
No obsessin just like it
No not planning the whole engine build around lumpy cam, just the first part

See if I like it?

we all 'like' our engines to sound more powerful than they may actually be, but not at the expense of driveability. you'll get fed up with the bad idling and plug fouling in traffic pretty quick if you use too much cam just to get 'the sound'. if you've not had a v8 before the sound of a good running one will put enough of a smile on your face that having a radical idle won't matter as much any more if at all. it's a 5.2 v8 in a little old cortina (manual too for added fun), believe me you'll love it
neil.

i found the writings of this-ere Mr kelly to be useful when picking a cam
that, and advice off here steered me clear of going too mental

http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

i downloaded his little program

used what i know from measuring my engine to aim for a cam the complimented the static CR.

my static CR was 12.5:1 which is a bit wrong for a street driven car but i had to work with what i had the engine i rebuilt was a wreck. I aimed for a dynamic CR of 8:1

and my motor has pistons with the edge cut, they stuck up 30 thou, and a broad perfectly flat dome like some 340s and original Aussie RT engines

if i run 95 RON and lug it up a hill in 4th at a near stall it will ping . so i run V power or similar concoction and choose the correct gear for the job and have no bother

my car sounds like an accident in a trombone testing facility.....but that is because it only has 6 cylinders and I use a pea shooter or a trumpet as my exhaust depending on mood.

if hot hatch boys can make their Citroen saxo sound meaty with a bean can exhaust any v8 with a normal exhaust is going to sound mean

you could re build your 318 with a set of these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-Dod ... 1825630273

and that is the cheapest you will get them for.... that ring pack is usually $50

its a taller 318 magnum piston with a thin molly coated ring pack, Kieth Black sells much the same at more cost. i think
they all probably come out of the same Indian or Mexican factory.

its a rock hard hyperutectic cast piston. they don't expand much at all and have a slippery coating on the skirts, so you run them at a tighter clearance than standard cast, get less blow-by and better ring seal . They are a smidgen lighter than the originals and i found good consistency in weight across the box of 8 i had. they have a pad area for weight matching, i didn't need to.

if the block and heads have not been messed with they should sit at deck height or a smidge above giving you proper static CR of about 10:1 rather than the 7.5 to 9:1 some of the engines came with,
choose cam based on rod length, (static CR/chamber size swept area) and stroke
the program will indicate dynamic CR for the cam specs you put in

aim for 7.5- 8 on the dynamic CR

the higher compression will give the exhaust a bit more crack which you tame into a nice V8 rumble with an appropriate resonator, if space allows, and muffler... avoid cherry bomb style glass packs.

obviously with a totally flat piston you will need to check that the valves don't bash into them. mine don't but i have a semi hemi head that looks like it came off a diesel generator, your 318 one might be a bit more wedge shaped.


Dave.

Dave999 wrote: Mon Sep 21, 20 5:41 pm muffler... avoid cherry bomb style glass packs.

Why is this Dave? Is it becasue of the persistent drone?
We have cherry bombs on the Chevy, with outlets behind the cab. Mandie loves the sound but I think its too loud.
I was planning an H pipe and longer tubes to quieten it down, or should we ditch the cherry bombs?

they are noisy and fun when new
but within 6 months the packing has disintergrated, blown away, and they are noisy and not fun anymore

i used to use them on the vws. freaked out a small child and he ran in front of the car and did the frightend rabbit routine
scared me into a new sensible exhaust i missed him..... but lucky no one coming the other way, turned me from a kid with a car, into a bit more of a sensible driver... did me a favour, no more detours through hedges... it was the horrified look on his mothers face....

i just found them a bit wearing after a while

just my preference, there is nothing wrong with them in a car you potter in...but once i actually started using it for its intended purpose used to do my head in on Motorway. compensate with the stereo up and have ringing ears on arrival

with a dynomatted car...might be ok

Dave

MattH wrote: Tue Sep 22, 20 10:24 am

Dave999 wrote: Mon Sep 21, 20 5:41 pm muffler... avoid cherry bomb style glass packs.

Why is this Dave? Is it becasue of the persistent drone?
We have cherry bombs on the Chevy, with outlets behind the cab. Mandie loves the sound but I think its too loud.
I was planning an H pipe and longer tubes to quieten it down, or should we ditch the cherry bombs?

they're not as bad on trucks as the noise is behind the cab, in a car they end at the back of the body or under it and drone at certain speeds which always seems to be a comfortable cruising speed for some reason? also they can be farty/brappy if you know what i mean when accellerating.
neil.

mygasser wrote: Mon Sep 21, 20 10:46 am we all 'like' our engines to sound more powerful than they may actually be, but not at the expense of driveability. you'll get fed up with the bad idling and plug fouling in traffic pretty quick if you use too much cam just to get 'the sound'. if you've not had a v8 before the sound of a good running one will put enough of a smile on your face that having a radical idle won't matter as much any more if at all. it's a 5.2 v8 in a little old cortina (manual too for added fun), believe me you'll love it
neil.

This is exactly the kind of input I need thanks

Dave999 wrote: Mon Sep 21, 20 5:41 pm i found the writings of this-ere Mr kelly to be useful when picking a cam
that, and advice off here steered me clear of going too mental

http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

i downloaded his little program

used what i know from measuring my engine to aim for a cam the complimented the static CR.

my static CR was 12.5:1 which is a bit wrong for a street driven car but i had to work with what i had the engine i rebuilt was a wreck. I aimed for a dynamic CR of 8:1

and my motor has pistons with the edge cut, they stuck up 30 thou, and a broad perfectly flat dome like some 340s and original Aussie RT engines

if i run 95 RON and lug it up a hill in 4th at a near stall it will ping . so i run V power or similar concoction and choose the correct gear for the job and have no bother

my car sounds like an accident in a trombone testing facility.....but that is because it only has 6 cylinders and I use a pea shooter or a trumpet as my exhaust depending on mood.

if hot hatch boys can make their Citroen saxo sound meaty with a bean can exhaust any v8 with a normal exhaust is going to sound mean

you could re build your 318 with a set of these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-Dod ... 1825630273

and that is the cheapest you will get them for.... that ring pack is usually $50

its a taller 318 magnum piston with a thin molly coated ring pack, Kieth Black sells much the same at more cost. i think
they all probably come out of the same Indian or Mexican factory.

its a rock hard hyperutectic cast piston. they don't expand much at all and have a slippery coating on the skirts, so you run them at a tighter clearance than standard cast, get less blow-by and better ring seal . They are a smidgen lighter than the originals and i found good consistency in weight across the box of 8 i had. they have a pad area for weight matching, i didn't need to.

if the block and heads have not been messed with they should sit at deck height or a smidge above giving you proper static CR of about 10:1 rather than the 7.5 to 9:1 some of the engines came with,
choose cam based on rod length, (static CR/chamber size swept area) and stroke
the program will indicate dynamic CR for the cam specs you put in

aim for 7.5- 8 on the dynamic CR

the higher compression will give the exhaust a bit more crack which you tame into a nice V8 rumble with an appropriate resonator, if space allows, and muffler... avoid cherry bomb style glass packs.
obviously with a totally flat piston you will need to check that the valves don't bash into them. mine don't but i have a semi hemi head that looks like it came off a diesel generator, your 318 one might be a bit more wedge shaped.
Dave.

Thanks Dave
I must admit I dont understand all of it, but I will read and digest it

Personally I hate the rasp of Cherry bombs. Turbo style mufflers have a quieter and much deeper tone and sound much better under full throttle. Flowmaster if you want to kick up a din, Dynomax if you want to tone it down a bit.

mygasser wrote: Sat Sep 12, 20 3:33 pm don't go too mad on the 'highest performance' cam on the page when looking. you'll only be disappointed with the car on the road as it'll be flat as a turd in the normal everyday rev range and run out of cylinder head/valve spring/breathing etc at much above 5500-6000 rpm's.
they're designed so you don't need a really lairy cam to get a rowdy idle, best of both sort of deal if you like.
neil.

Umm... just wanted to say "This" !
Speaking as someone who is unhappy with their cam and is now (I know, I know) looking to downgrade at some point dont go too wild for street. The loss of brakes vacuum (Petes 'spin the bottle' is a great analogy) and general stinkiness and bag-o-spanners-at-low-revs isnt worth it. Go 'warm' rather than 'hot' would be my 2p from experience...
(I mean there is an upside - mein gott does it pull now but you gotta nail it. And then the back end tries to overtake you in second gear - this doesnt go down well on the high street. Your cars gonna be plenty quick and mean sounding.)

Oh, and weighing in on the mufflers, I went flowmaster for the childish sound. Dynamax were too quiet on my old engine - sounded like a tesla.

Thanks for the input on exhausts
I'm going to experiment with my own made silencers and different configurations as well as pipe sizes

And may leave the cam alone for the moment

The cam I told you about in mine ticks all the boxes for me with a reasonable lumpyish tick-over, has vac for the brakes, doesn't choke up in traffic & ticks over at about 800(but mine is a 340 stroker)

kma176 wrote: Wed Sep 23, 20 11:50 am The cam I told you about in mine ticks all the boxes for me with a reasonable lumpyish tick-over, has vac for the brakes, doesn't choke up in traffic & ticks over at about 800(but mine is a 340 stroker)

Thanks again, still something to think about