12 point Roll cage - any tips?

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Blue
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Post by Blue »

Dave, I think the main purpose of the torque box is to brace the forward spring mount, I don't think you would notice much difference from a handling point of view, but it's a simple mod and probably worth doing anyway. Have you seen the way super stock cars use a long tubular X brace beetween the chassis connectors? I can see that could take out a lot of torsional twist when used in a handling application, just a thought. I would say you would need a minimum of six points to really stiffen the car up.
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Guest

Post by Guest »

I had thought of the x brace when I installed the sub-frame connectors. but my exhaust system just wouldn't allow it. I think I'm just going to go the whole hog for the 12 point cage. Do you have any supplier names for chrome moly?
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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

Yeah but on super stock cars and the like there is no structural strength in the floor or in fact ANY of the body panels.

Fair enough if you are using 'glass panels or cutting out the inner fenders etc or have reduced weight by cutting out sections of steel like Blue then you need to replace that strength.

If you have all the original steel chassis and body parts you don't need a 12 point cage. Not unless you are considering SERIOUS circuit racing and even then you could do without unless you made the car lighter. But for a stock bodied street machine I think it is over the top personally. But go ahead and have fun with the welder! It is your car after all! :)

Your heart was really set on having a 12 point cage anyway wasn't it so I don't know why you asked? :?
Guest

Post by Guest »

My heart has always been set on a twelve point cage, but I was hoping that those who had went before me could guide some light on the do's and don'ts of cage fabrication. You have a point that I'd be going overkill with a twelve point cage, but Anyway I'll give it some more consideration before I do anything that I can't change back.
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