What tools do I need?
Moderator: Moderators
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Anonymous
I wouldn't say there is anything special you need to dismantle and assemble
i found an impact air drive head in 1/2 inch drive for me compressor usful for things like steering box bolts K frame bolts etc
also makes taking off the wheels nice and quick
imperial size allen keys in really small for taking off the knobs on the dash
or if you have a set of really small TORQs (mobile phone sizes) one of them bungs in ok
everything else involves breaking out the 'King Dicks'
and if you can get ring rather than open ended they last a bit longer and so will your knuckles
infact if you get a socket set that lables up the metric sizes that are identical to the imperial sizes rather than wasting space and your money by including 2 near identical sockets then you are onto a good thing.
nothing on the car other than in the gearbox uses snap rings circlips or any other specialised fastner
belt sander in big and long-n-little sizes with emery cloth belts is a boone
otherwise its try to get the grinding disk in, or a permanently overheated dremmel
imperial feelers just so the measurements in the manual are easy
a foot/lb torque wrench for the same reason
and yes
A bloody big hammer
decent set of HSS bits for a variable torque drill
and some centre punches
oh yes
a bloody big hammer
strip of nylon for pinging off trim and windscreen wipers
and last but not least
The patients of Job (biblical reference there, he wasn't a Dr. just quite laid back, nothing to do with jobbies)
Dave
i found an impact air drive head in 1/2 inch drive for me compressor usful for things like steering box bolts K frame bolts etc
also makes taking off the wheels nice and quick
imperial size allen keys in really small for taking off the knobs on the dash
or if you have a set of really small TORQs (mobile phone sizes) one of them bungs in ok
everything else involves breaking out the 'King Dicks'
and if you can get ring rather than open ended they last a bit longer and so will your knuckles
infact if you get a socket set that lables up the metric sizes that are identical to the imperial sizes rather than wasting space and your money by including 2 near identical sockets then you are onto a good thing.
nothing on the car other than in the gearbox uses snap rings circlips or any other specialised fastner
belt sander in big and long-n-little sizes with emery cloth belts is a boone
otherwise its try to get the grinding disk in, or a permanently overheated dremmel
imperial feelers just so the measurements in the manual are easy
a foot/lb torque wrench for the same reason
and yes
A bloody big hammer
decent set of HSS bits for a variable torque drill
and some centre punches
oh yes
a bloody big hammer
strip of nylon for pinging off trim and windscreen wipers
and last but not least
The patients of Job (biblical reference there, he wasn't a Dr. just quite laid back, nothing to do with jobbies)
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Anonymous
If you are going to do a Machine Mart hit do it on one of the VAT free events, that will save a bundle.
I found the Clarke tap set is a little big, after using it I found some of the bolts were a bit loose (and I had wound the dies out first) so it must be that the taps were a little too big. Best to get more expensive and accurate tools for that sort of job.
I found the Clarke tap set is a little big, after using it I found some of the bolts were a bit loose (and I had wound the dies out first) so it must be that the taps were a little too big. Best to get more expensive and accurate tools for that sort of job.
well i think i can probably speak for all here when i say everyone would rather see club member succeed (and thats for all with new projects) with a project and enjoy their car rather than loose interest
i've had some fantastic help from club members ranging from sourcing parts to welding to encouragment and good natured micky taking
which has all made owning the car and club membership a very enjoable experience
they even put up with my sometimes widely inacurate rambling and odd ideas
anyway
nut and bolt just join stuff togther
use what ya like for none load bearing things
do some research in proper grade of fastner for load bearing stuff.
shanked blots are for compression clamping forces and not necesarily shear forces etc etc. the markings on the head and the shape of the shank and length of thread tell the story. eg wheel bolts have a shape to the back of the head and the correct type or at least a special washer is needed if you swap steel wheels for alloy, its common sense right fastner for the job
most bolts, well, yes funny thread and funny size
i asked a similar question recently and am assured by many chaps on here
that JCB landrover Rover BMC triumph et al
all used funny size and funny thread
imperial size in UNF etc
so
local heavy plant or classic UK car place should see ya right
i have had good luck with a local Black Cab Garage recently who do all kinds of funny thread funny size castle nuts lock pins roll pins grease nipples etc but like you to take the offending part in to compare.
i think all of us have a box if widgetty bits anyway if you really wanted that original nut to hold down your dash pad.
many many of the fixings on an Aussie mopar are identical to US
i.e the self tappers that hold the interior door handles on
the plastic bung things for your headlamp adjusters
the plastic widget that holds the throttle cable into the leaver on the accelerator peddle.
dash nuts and bolts
the little bolts for your prop shaft where it bolts to the diff they are the same as a chevy and US Mopars
all easily lost and all available from local US car suppliers perhaps people on here and the US or Australia
the cogs for your speedo drive same same same
only bits that i have come across that are tricky are the half head height bolts that hold the brake pads into the caliper these have to be half head height otherwise they rub and i only managed to get some from Aus.
however i think the aussie designed and made calipers are a copy of US ones as they appear at least for the VH to take a very similar pad.
VJ is different as i found to my cost and Minty's gain
my VH has VJ brakes
Aussie chargers are classic cars however most classic car mags will list a bleeding DAF or trabant rather than an Aussie Val
James
I think the clarke taps have a strange thread profile. I've found em to be a little loose as well especially when used in aluminium
Dave
i've had some fantastic help from club members ranging from sourcing parts to welding to encouragment and good natured micky taking
which has all made owning the car and club membership a very enjoable experience
they even put up with my sometimes widely inacurate rambling and odd ideas
anyway
nut and bolt just join stuff togther
use what ya like for none load bearing things
do some research in proper grade of fastner for load bearing stuff.
shanked blots are for compression clamping forces and not necesarily shear forces etc etc. the markings on the head and the shape of the shank and length of thread tell the story. eg wheel bolts have a shape to the back of the head and the correct type or at least a special washer is needed if you swap steel wheels for alloy, its common sense right fastner for the job
most bolts, well, yes funny thread and funny size
i asked a similar question recently and am assured by many chaps on here
that JCB landrover Rover BMC triumph et al
all used funny size and funny thread
imperial size in UNF etc
so
local heavy plant or classic UK car place should see ya right
i have had good luck with a local Black Cab Garage recently who do all kinds of funny thread funny size castle nuts lock pins roll pins grease nipples etc but like you to take the offending part in to compare.
i think all of us have a box if widgetty bits anyway if you really wanted that original nut to hold down your dash pad.
many many of the fixings on an Aussie mopar are identical to US
i.e the self tappers that hold the interior door handles on
the plastic bung things for your headlamp adjusters
the plastic widget that holds the throttle cable into the leaver on the accelerator peddle.
dash nuts and bolts
the little bolts for your prop shaft where it bolts to the diff they are the same as a chevy and US Mopars
all easily lost and all available from local US car suppliers perhaps people on here and the US or Australia
the cogs for your speedo drive same same same
only bits that i have come across that are tricky are the half head height bolts that hold the brake pads into the caliper these have to be half head height otherwise they rub and i only managed to get some from Aus.
however i think the aussie designed and made calipers are a copy of US ones as they appear at least for the VH to take a very similar pad.
VJ is different as i found to my cost and Minty's gain
my VH has VJ brakes
Aussie chargers are classic cars however most classic car mags will list a bleeding DAF or trabant rather than an Aussie Val
James
I think the clarke taps have a strange thread profile. I've found em to be a little loose as well especially when used in aluminium
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Dave,
There is a nut and bolt place down by Halfords in Paisley (Sutherlands, I think it is called) who usually have the Imperial sizes I need. Pretty helpful. There was a great place down by Ibrox stadium, but they have gone.
Any petrol tank work, there is Star Radiators beside Ibrox as well. They are just about the only folk in Glasgow that have facilities to weld tanks. Serck stopped doing it.
As I mentioned last week, I have a lot of little, usually US car specific, tools that I have picked up in the past. When in the US, go to an Autoparts, or Autozone and look at all the little gizmos they have. Some are very handy to have.
I tend to use a combination of 1/2, 3/8th and 1/4 inch sockets. Most of it is actually Linda's who has an excellent Sears Craftsman socket set (like you, most of my stuff was metric for the Buick and Caprice. You can almost completely dismantle a GN with a 10mm spanner), but odd things like deep draw sockets are mine.
All the best
There is a nut and bolt place down by Halfords in Paisley (Sutherlands, I think it is called) who usually have the Imperial sizes I need. Pretty helpful. There was a great place down by Ibrox stadium, but they have gone.
Any petrol tank work, there is Star Radiators beside Ibrox as well. They are just about the only folk in Glasgow that have facilities to weld tanks. Serck stopped doing it.
As I mentioned last week, I have a lot of little, usually US car specific, tools that I have picked up in the past. When in the US, go to an Autoparts, or Autozone and look at all the little gizmos they have. Some are very handy to have.
I tend to use a combination of 1/2, 3/8th and 1/4 inch sockets. Most of it is actually Linda's who has an excellent Sears Craftsman socket set (like you, most of my stuff was metric for the Buick and Caprice. You can almost completely dismantle a GN with a 10mm spanner), but odd things like deep draw sockets are mine.
All the best
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Anonymous
