Wiped cam/dead lifter/s?

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sun Jun 24, 07 5:24 pm

Dave, i'd like to run stock style pushrods. I really shouldnt have to run ajustable pushrods. I bet i'm one of very few (273s aside) Mopar owners running adjustable rocker gear on a mild hydraulic cam.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jun 24, 07 5:53 pm

Would it not be better to sort/rebuild the bad lifters , rather than fitting new one's to the existing cam.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sun Jun 24, 07 6:52 pm

I dont know Adam, i'd rather have new ones. These ones have had a bit of a hard time. I can break a new set in.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Jun 24, 07 7:03 pm

Just thought you had to match cam & lifters , don't wanna wipe the cam.

Not much experience in this , tried to do the same meself , but was told not too.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Jun 24, 07 7:08 pm

If the lifters are new they will be OK on the cam after a short break-in. Just put a blob of cam lube or white grease on the lifter base before you drop it in.

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Sun Jun 24, 07 9:29 pm

Are you sure you don't have milled 360 heads on a 318?? Don't know your engine size from memory? Were these adj rockers on there when you purchased it? The milled 360 heads need an adj rocker set up as the standard pushrods aren't the right length and rather than get custom pushrods it's a cheap fix.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sun Jun 24, 07 10:06 pm

OK heres the spec
360 motor
Comp cams XE262 cam
360 heads with light face skim, new vlave seats and back cut
All valve tips aligned correctly.
I had the cam & lifters in my old 318 and it was fine.
The day I started up the rebuilt 360, having transferred the cam and lifters from the 318 it was aparrent that preload was missing, hence the adjustable rods.
I'm happy to break in new lifters, but is there any way of measuring the pushrod length, cos the old 360 7.5" pushrods are worn and too short.
I really would like to go back to one siz efits all pushrods.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 25, 07 7:16 am

Am I missing something here or just having a blonde moment!

decking a block or skimming heads places the rocker gear closer to the cam so pushrods are too long

the .027 head gasket will do the same without the motor came from the factory with a gasket that was thicker ??

I doubt the cam base circle is out, possible though

I'd say the most likely explanation is the valves are shorter than stock

If you want to go back to a stockish pushrod just get some custom ones done, they are not expensive.

To do this use a pair of your adjustable ones on 1 cylinder, adjust them so the valve geometry is correct then measure then, I can get you a set from Smith Bros no problem

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Mon Jun 25, 07 9:11 am

being able to compress a lifter by hand doesn't necessarily mean its collapsed.

(obviously that means pressing it down using the rocker as a lever)

it just means its empty

i doubt you could do it between finger and thumb

if its empty then its jammed due to dirt muck or sludge

or the gallery is blocked.

or its bleeding down too quick

if you have run them with no pre load the end stop clip can come out (snap)

are these top end oiling lifters? if so check the valve disc dimple faces upwards not downwards it should press against the hole in the middle of the top of the lifter.

3 of mine where the wrong way round and the symptoms were the same.

Dave

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Jun 25, 07 9:27 am

I have to admit I can't get my head around the problem either Miles.

As Dave says. Oil should get trapped in the lifter. It only has a small hole for oil to escape by so if you compress it you have to squeeze all the oil out as you go which takes effort. This is even more difficult when the lifter is raised slightly in its bore as the lifters oil hole is trapped.

However. If you are turning the engine over slowly, by hand for example, the springs will squeeze the oil out and because you have no oil pressure the lifter does not fill again. So when you remove it you will find it compresses easily.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Jun 25, 07 10:50 am

Dave/s, I understand what you are saying. I 'wanted' to hear that the lifters had collapsed because the solution is straightforward-fit new lifters.

When i took one apart (partially) yesterday, some dirty oil did come out.

i simply dont know what to do next, sure i can rebuild the 2 ofending lifters, but i really want to be sure before reusing them.

Will, regarding pushrods, i agree, if anything my standard rods should be a little too long.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 25, 07 11:31 am

Only thing is shorter valves or the new seats haven't been cut to stock height in the head Miles

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Jun 25, 07 1:15 pm

Will, i did wonder the same.
I've shown the lifters to the in house engineer here at work as he is excellent. He seems to think the lifters are fine and suspects oiling as an issue
possibilities-over oiling to blocked crankcase breather?
-wrong oil-try 10 40 and new filter
-clogged lifter as Dave suggested.

Dave T sugested i shouldnt be able to depress the lifter with my fingers. I can, it depreses the lifter about 1/8th of an inch.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Jun 25, 07 1:21 pm

There is only a small spring in there. I can't remember how strong it is? Not that strong i don't think.

The guy that told you to try a lighter oil is a numpty. These engines need a heavy oil. 20-50 really. Or a straight 40 weight if you can get it.

Use Castrol Magnatec 15-40w or Shell Rotella diesel oil.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Jun 25, 07 5:57 pm

I dont reckon oil will make any difference to Miles' problem. For oil to be the problem it'd be 'coz the oil in there is well past it and from the sound of it his motor is well cared for in that way.

Hmmmm, depressing the lifter 1/8th of an inch....I guess you might be able to - they ought to be quite stiff to depress......