Second sensible question

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Sep 18, 07 7:30 pm

Hang on, this is getting confused already, Pete is talking about the .590 mechanical cam which has 312 degrees of advertised duration and is a very different beast to either of the .509 hydraulics.....

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Tue Sep 18, 07 7:43 pm

Not me... never mentioned a cam...except the spec for a similar car as tested with the Mech cam 312 duration

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Sep 18, 07 7:54 pm

Strip only ? Big Roller cam - embrace the technology (if not the reliability).
Soppy stall Convertor - at least 4400+
Manic gears in the back, sorted; pampers R us

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Tue Sep 18, 07 7:58 pm

Have to agree Pete ..if its Strip only go mental

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Sep 18, 07 8:01 pm

Blue wrote:Hang on, this is getting confused already, Pete is talking about the .590 mechanical cam which has 312 degrees of advertised duration and is a very different beast to either of the .509 hydraulics.....

That is the spec I have quoted after he said it was the mechanical cam. I have posted the duration @ 50thou though as this is what really tells you where the cam is working.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Sep 18, 07 8:05 pm

What you really need to do Pete (Walton) is to enter all your engine details into a desktop dyno to get a rough idea of what power the engine is going to make. From that we can have a stab at the ET and MPH it will run.

From THAT we can work out what rear gear you need once you decide what rpm you are going to rev to.

This is the way i did it and it worked for me.

You don't want to run out or rpms half way up the strip but neither do you want to be under your peak HP point at the line. So gears are critical.

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Tue Sep 18, 07 8:54 pm

AllKiller wrote:well if you keep those MAHOOSIVE tyres you'll need 4.88's at least

Sorry Pete, When i said "comes on" i meant Torque
you'll need a convertor 500 to 700 rpm below the max torque point of your new motor, so you'll need to put all the relevant info into a dyno simulator to find this out...C.I.,Heads,head chamber CC's compression,rod length,cam, intake, carb etc,etc
Then you will have a ball park area to work in, so on the line you can trans brake the motor to just under max Torque and leave like a Scalded cat

Excuse me am i invisible ??
and isnt a convertor we are helping with

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Tue Sep 18, 07 9:48 pm

Pete
I might have a convertor for sale, realistically, you need at least 4200 stall, 5000 would be OK with that cam and weight.
The guy with the blue Challenger runs a .590 with Eddy heads and a Dominator.
Make sure you use a good break in oil. GM eos is pretty good.
Mick

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Sep 18, 07 10:23 pm

what compression will you be running?

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Tue Sep 18, 07 10:28 pm

compression, makes power if its only strip car

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Sep 18, 07 10:30 pm

they're good heads, our car came with them on the 493, it ran 8.90's with 150hp shot of gass, and i think duncs tube car runs them,
what does your car weigh?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Sep 18, 07 10:42 pm

is that with you or without?