Mopar Muscle Association UK

A quick update for all you kind souls.

Been frantic with other emergency jobs for a few weeks - finally got a solid few hours yesterday to show the charger some love.

Using the tips above made sure the cylinder was bled properly before installation. Also decides to have a look inside the ports of the master cylinder. Discovered that on removing the brass inner-ports, that the old mopar one had a rubber one-way-valve in the small reservoir (rear brakes). I transplanted this into the new master cylinder and bolted it all up.
It may make no difference, but at least it is a difference.... Got it all bled again last thing (must have put 2 litres of fluid through it ! ) Adjusted rears and now she awaits test drive. Hope to get the wheels back on tonight.

I seem to have a pedal, but I wont know until later if it is still just the rears. I hope not - I'm fed up of this !

Will post the update as soon as I have had test run but just wondered if anyone thinks the little rubber valve thing could have made the difference.

Later -

Morgan

the little valve is to hold some pressure in the rear lines so the springs in the drum dont push the pistons in the wheel cylinder right back in when you let off the brakes...
it may make a difference though, I dont know......

Thinking about it, the valve might be your problem....if your pushrod length is wrong.
Without it you would have excessive play in the rear brakes resulting in a soft pedal, if you.took out the play by adjusting the pushrod too long then the master cylinder wouldn't return all the way...leading to crap front brakes, as you wouldn't be moving much fluid from the front brake resevoir when you pressed it

or am I talking rubbish?

Well - I dont think you are talking rubbish. Something needs adjustment, and the symptom suggests the fronts are not picking up as they should. A shorter pushrod is worth a go at this rate

Just been on test run - I think the car is about the same... I have burned days on this now ! I think I may be going insane.

Firm/hard stopping going while going forward will lock the rears. Car does stop. Fast reverse (down the industrial estate ! ! 8) ) and stamp on the brakes will lock the fronts, so I do have some front brake.

Maybe I am going mad. Maybe 2 tons of Charger *will* lock the rears first. (anyone ? ) I was sure the last cylinder locked fronts first. Maybe its my head....

I think I am going to have to run it over to my mates garage and get the fronts on the rollers to see if I have any brakes to speak of.

Is the servo working ok? , if you stand on the brakes do they lock up/stop?

OK.

So the fronts lock when you drive backwards and the reas lock when you drive forwards.

Don't you think that this is just a case of brake bias? i.e. does it not just need what every car in the club should have which is an adjustable brake proportioning valve? You have proved the brakes work. Weight transfer is changing which wheels lock.

All you need to do is reduce the pressure to the rear brakes with the valve until it brakes right.

Adam/Dave - Yep, I have brakes. A full bore 40mph stamp on everything will lock the rears (easily) and the fronts I *THINK* (but not nearly as easily, and only just).

As Dave says, I think maybe it is just a bias thing now. The old master cylinder was mainly fronts, I expected this to be the same.

My next move is to get it on some rollers and see what stopping power I actually have. Then I am going to fit the proportioning valve as a matter of course.

Thanks chaps. As much as anything it nice having somewhere to go ARRGGHHH at.

Auto transmissions take offence to being driven by rollers or towed.

Only if the engine isn't running,which it will be for the servo.