Mopar Muscle Association UK

I must admit if I were doing it again I would use the modern 'profiled' connectors (eg. US Car Tool) which weld to (though not through) the floorpan. Superior for strength despite being lighter.

The idea of making them easier to put back to stock does have some merit in a valuable car I agree, but frankly anything can be returned to stock if someone cares enough (think of all those tubbed out HemiCuda racecars converted back to stock!)
Regardless, as long as they are welded in (not bolted) they are worth having, although I have to say that I was hard pressed to notice much difference before and after driving my convertible - which are obviously supposedly wobbily to start with!!

I also braced the front crossmember to the front chassis rail, at the same time spreading the load from the connector across the crossmember a bit. I'll have a look for some pics.....

I agree with you Gavin. However there was no such thing as profiled frame connectors when I did mine. Or yours probably. Plus mine would be much easier to remove again and retain the original floor.

But since then I have indeed incorporated the floor by welding a prop shaft loop between the two rails and the floor. Not so easy to put right. But a stronger resistance to longitudinal twisting.

I constructed mine from 2" x 2" box section and welded them in...sorry about the small picture.

Made a hell of a difference with the way the car drove...it even seemed to go around corners properly as well!

Check out the traction bars...proper old school!

always made our own out of 2"x2" box and about 6" 2"x2" angle for the front made a difference in the GTX no more rattles and squeaks done a few sets

did a set on Go Mango when I owned it

don't ask

2 x 2 straight through the floor, only into the car behind the front seats though and at the end of the day who gives a rats ass about the passengers

US Car Tool wasn't even up and running at that time so no other option other than bolt on rubbish

Will be warm as toast tommorow (thanks miggy ) , gonna use the frame connectors i got & cut the ends off , these are 3 inch by two inch.

Still got no 'two' on the keypad , also no 'inches'.

Adam, why don't you use On-Screen Keyboard when you need to type a 2. My backslash key doesn't work but I need it for programming. \ here you go.

Adam mine are welded to the floor pan, certainly tightened the car up when driving on the street too

Adam68 wrote:Will be warm as toast tommorow (thanks miggy ) , gonna use the frame connectors i got & cut the ends off , these are 3 inch by two inch.

Still got no 'two' on the keypad , also no 'inches'.

Dont know why you need 2's anyway, you never buy anything that cheap !

I can lend you these as I am not using them at the moment

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Thanks Mick , how do you get on screen up?

Steve , if the mig penitrates through the floor pans , the Pit is toast , gonna have knot neck sitting in doin fire duty.

Ever seen dynomat on fire.

On-Screen Keyboard is in Accessories - Accessibility, that is if you are using Windows.

I ve never seen a dynomat let alone one on fire
are they stuck to the floor then ?

Adam68 wrote:Thanks Mick , how do you get on screen up?

Steve , if the mig penitrates through the floor pans , the Pit is toast , gonna have knot neck sitting in doin fire duty.

Ever seen dynomat on fire.

what the ell is dynomat, whatever it is it must weigh somethin, get it outa there,

You can get a new keyboard from Ebuyer for £3.99. Wireless one for less than £15 I think? Cheaper than a packet of fags these days.

Dunc, Someone told me its heavy.....True Adam ?