Mopar Muscle Association UK

sounds like your door cards are missing their membrane

behind the door cards the door cavity should be sealed with a sheet of polythene

cut to same shape as door card

cut holes for handles winders etc

check all drian holes in door bottom are clear and the hole is dented out
pointless if the hole has rim that keep water in

stick new membrane on to door with rubberised glue or mastic.
copydex at a push

i used rubble sacks from wickes cuts down 1 side and across bottom

replace door cards

this won't stop it but it will help. the inside of the door is exposed to all the water that runs down the window and gets past the window seal

it keeps the fiber board of the door card nicely moist unless its sealed off from it.


otherwise screen corners leaking?
plenum chamber under the front scuttle leaking. clean out drian holes at either side next to hood springs. if they are blocked the water can build up, breach the damn around each of the air vent entries.
air vents either side? take em out
pull off the bottom
put new rubber on front face of flap
pop rivet it all back together
put it back with new top seal or use draught excluder tape. they should poke up about 1 inch into the scuttle they are held in with a long loop of coat hanger wire into which 2 self tapper screws bolt through the bottom of the vent box (well they are on mine but mines a bit base model in it execution of these things)

put it all back and close the vents

you can also seal off the boot

take out back seat back

take out fiberboard
polythene or draught excluder seal strip
put it all back
similar method

under the dash the area will be filled with sound deadening fluff. like the stuff hamsters live in. if it gets wet it never dries out until the summer

keeps the car nicely moist.

take it out and replace it with something more modern or just put up with more noise and warm smelly engine wafts

take out seats and carpet
put in plastic backed carpet
put your carpet over the top
if the carpet gets wet it stays in the top surface and doesn't then mix with shoe dirt and grit against the floor making a rust inducing grinding paste

the rubber boot on your shifter
the rubber boot on your clutch peddle
the rubber boot on your brake peddle rod
the rubber gasket at the base of the steering column are all supposed to seal you off from the outside world if they are not there or indeed half the grohmets in the firewall are not the damp air gets in

your heater matrix isn't leaking is it?

any car that isn't sealed like a modern car will get condensation


Dave

What sort of half-arsed explanation is that Dave?















Only messin'! That's excellent....and don't forget the seals on the wiper spindles...again!

did anyone mention wiper spindles?

yes they need to be done as well

Dave

I've got a leaky plenum

Wiper spindle seals can leak too.

latil wrote:I've got a leaky plenum

Try Tena lady Steve.

I was going to try and poke some mastic in there...

oooooh my son

say no more

dave

Two simple bodges to add to all the above-

Suss out the lowest point of each floorpan when it's parked in its usual spot, drill a hole or better yet if you can bring yourself to do it... whack a sharpened screwy trough the floor. This method makes a nice funnel shaped hole to encourace water to drain out. (remember to get it dry and paint around the holes after!)

Strip out any sound deadening crap under the carpets and replace with rubber (house) doormats from your local B&Q, the ones with lots of holes to clean muddy boots.
Sure you'll be deaf but they'll keep your carpets out of the puddles in your floor

In my experience you'll spend forever fixing leaks in old cars just to find it's getting in somewhere else

Never Used One but wonder if this is any good????

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... =Air%20Dry

Amazing A grey bag of silica gel for £10.

i would imagine a bag of popcorn would work too. might go mouldy i suppose though? i suppose anything that is very dry and goes soggy will draw moisture from air.

If you dont use the vehicle over the winter, dry it out completly, buy a outdoor cover, theyre not 100% waterproof but theres some on market thats not far off n breathable, yes it might sweat a little, but thats a lot lot less than it sitting in a heavy down pour day in day out.

Leaving it out uncovered your facing a uphill battle.

A de-humidifier? why use hospital equipment to jump start Hearts with ?

Wow... I ask people if they wanted 100% waterproof covers. Most of you said they were no good. Well mine is going under one. I was going to bring twenty or so over. So a to keep costs down, But as no one wanted one. I may even bring one of the portable garages over from Canada in 2 weeks time, saw some real sweet ones over there October!

db wrote:Two simple bodges to add to all the above-

Suss out the lowest point of each floorpan when it's parked in its usual spot, drill a hole or better yet if you can bring yourself to do it... whack a sharpened screwy trough the floor. This method makes a nice funnel shaped hole to encourace water to drain out. (remember to get it dry and paint around the holes after!)

Strip out any sound deadening crap under the carpets and replace with rubber (house) doormats from your local B&Q, the ones with lots of holes to clean muddy boots.
Sure you'll be deaf but they'll keep your carpets out of the puddles in your floor

In my experience you'll spend forever fixing leaks in old cars just to find it's getting in somewhere else

Been there, done that, it does work ... with a classic its worth fixing properly, though