Blue's stroker build

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Ivor
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Post by Ivor »

I've always been a bit concerned about using Glyptal, just in case of flaking.

This will be an interesting thread!
The pump don’t work coz the vandals took the handles.

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Guy
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Post by Guy »

Never had a problem with it flaking Ivor, just make sure the block is spotless and you apply as directed. I think it is a must have, if the block has had any grinding/clearance work to stop any of that old casting sand returning to hurt your motor later.
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Blue
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Post by Blue »

Thanks Pete, but I've already got something different in mind....
“Buy it broke and fix it wrong, it’s the American way”
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Ivor
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Post by Ivor »

Blue, I know what you are after and it wouldn't take more than a couple of hours to make a mould and pop one out for you...can you feel a deal coming on? ;)
The pump don’t work coz the vandals took the handles.

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Blue
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Post by Blue »

Indeed I can....
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MrNorm
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Post by MrNorm »

Blue wrote:Thanks Pete, but I've already got something different in mind....
Cowl induction...... :shock: :shock:
Nah, I'm definitely joking!! :D :D .

Looking good anyway, should be a great motor! Funny isn't it, Indy get slagged off like nobodies business but still sell the parts.
And 440Source - it's hilarious how many 'professional' builders take the rip out of their parts, you get what you pay for, chinese junk etc, without ever having seen them, just like you said Blue. And then the same people (in the US) say you must always get your parts checked, use nothing out of the box. So if you use a $300 crank or a $3000 crank you still need to check it!

Brandon at 440source has provided a much needed service and sells a lot of stuff. Have you seen his new stealth heads? wish he did SB stuff.
anyway, looking forward to seing the completed motor, I'm sure it will rip up the tarmac...
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400 Build

Post by Anonymous »

Good Luck Blue!!!

Just a quick note on Detonation!

ONCE YOU'VE HEARD IT, ITS TOO LATE!!! The damage is already DONE.

I see the old Maincap dilemma, still haunts us all???

Four bolt mains is the only real answer methinks!

Its just the $2800 is the killer.

Best wishes Bacctastic.
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

MrNorm wrote:[- it's hilarious how many 'professional' builders take the rip out of their parts, you get what you pay for, chinese junk etc, without ever having seen them, just like you said Blue. And then the same people (in the US) say you must always get your parts checked, use nothing out of the box. So if you use a $300 crank or a $3000 crank you still need to check it!
440 source advertsing probably doesn't bring in the big money to the magazines like other suppliers do.

if one big advertsier pulls cos you don't push their product your mag can go under.

a 1/4 page ad. in the back, in black and white and you don't get the air time. easy target

sad state of affaires but you can see why it happens.

that combined with "tallest poppy syndrome"
The little guy who done good gets his head chopped off by the rest just because they don't like the compettition and their poistion in buisness means they can.

buy-out or ruin the little guy who undercuts at all cost, to maintain your own profit.

dave
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Ivor
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Post by Ivor »

Well, either way, I think the proof is in the pudding, Blue can nail a decent engine together, so if it all goes Pete Tong, I'll be pointing the finger at the parts...then again, Dunc snapped a Callies didn't he, so who knows?

I think I might machine my own crank out of grade 416 stainless billet, just to be on the safe side! ;)
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Post by Cannonball »

Ivor wrote:Well, either way, I think the proof is in the pudding, Blue can nail a decent engine together, so if it all goes Pete Tong, I'll be pointing the finger at the parts...then again, Dunc snapped a Callies didn't he, so who knows?

I think I might machine my own crank out of grade 416 stainless billet, just to be on the safe side! ;)
yep and still gutted now, never raced since, :shock:
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Blue
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Post by Blue »

Finally got my junk back! heads had 1 odd valve that was longer than the rest but had a shorter installed height! That sorted, the heads needed little else. The block is bored and line honed with the BCR ally caps and ARP studs. Found the billet rear seal retainer sat a few thou. proud of the pan rail, but 10 minuates of careful work with a flat file had it sitting flush. Also had to trim about an 1/8" or so off the back cap studs as they were above the pan rail also. Next job will be to try the block in the car with the pan on, to see if I got my measurements right and make sure it clears the rack. Seems pointless pulling the motor now only to have to drop it back in for the Nats, and then pull it out again, so that will have to wait.
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TrevD
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Post by TrevD »

Blue do you hasve the original rear seal retainer, if so can i borrow it for a couple of days please ;) ;)
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Blue
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Post by Blue »

Of course you can Trev!
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