Mopar Muscle Association UK

latil wrote:Bloody nightmare,still it could have been worse
Didn't cook those new bowl gaskets did you?

Steve , thanks for the rebuild kit for the demon , was a relief you had the metering block/bowl gaskets & o rings , thanks for your time also.

BTW , those spare gaskets i has are crap & i've said it before , won't say who's they are , will you be my witness?

Your old gaskets looked like bits of slate and were about as hard as. Remind me not to buy any.

latil wrote:Your old gaskets looked like bits of slate and were about as hard as. Remind me not to buy any.

They were brand new too , just rebuilt the 850 the night before to change @ the pod , there valve cover gaskets are Bananarama! too.

They were more like something off a 40 year old carb that had sat around for ages.
I wonder what their head gaskets are like.

GTXJim wrote:Could you please explain phasing for me had a problem with my MSD dizzy had a wet plug on No 8 was checking a few thing and notice the dizzy was wobbing all over the place seems to have a bent shaft as it seem alright before don't know how this could have happened so we just packed it out a bit, with some O rings seemed to calm the wobble down.But not 100% about phasing

Jim , if you remove the roll pin you can pull the shaft out , maybe just the top & bottom bearings gone south , also got a thrust washer sitting on top & bottom bearings , for the sake of it you might be better noff spending on a new one , no point chancing it on you're set up.

Nice one Adam, sorry about the mishap but I have to hand it to you that you just get on and fix stuff while some of us might still be talking about it!!

Well i just checked my MSD dizzy.

See if I did this right.

Now to add the advance.

If I was doing this with a stock type dizzy I would advance it by sucking on the vacuum pipe. Once advanced stick your tongue in the end of the pipe to seal it and hold the advance.

Well , although the rotor phasing was off i'm not 100% sure this was the problem that caused the nitrous backfire , could be down to too many variables , one being i might of let off the throttle before shutting the gas down , who knows.

Also thinking the cam grind may of played a role too , due to the late opening of the exhaust valve (cam retarded) , coupled with a tight LSA (large overlap) , the exhaust did'nt have a chance to scavenge (positive pressure) , hence not drawing in the intake charge , causing the nitrous/fuel to stack up in the runners/intake manifold.

I realise the cam grind was totally wrong for a nitrous motor but @ the time i could'nt be arsed changing it out , now the motor is stripped i'm gonna swap the cam out , the replacement will have better suited valve timing events (valve events BBDC) due to an increased LSA , helping to eliminate pumping losses , will also advance the cam , really need that extra 100/10ths.

Probably run like Bananarama! off the bottle.

Well, you ARE building a Nitrous motor now, not a motor that had nitrous on it......

Pete wrote:Well, you ARE building a Nitrous motor now, not a motor that had nitrous on it......

Well , maybe 60/40.

Talkin Bananarama! again after bein on the

Really gota give up on chasin this backfire problem.

Slight problem with an intake valve , was minimal so don't think this was the cause of the backfire , keep goin back to the rotor phasing problem , when i checked the rotor phasing with the timing light pointed in the cap (dialback set to 0*) it was showing the rotor fireing just PAST the tower terminal , problem is i pull 12* of retard through the nitrous controller , which would place the rotor arm further away from the cap terminal it's spose to be fireing , how much i don't know cos i did'nt pull timing out when i was checking the phasing .

Sooooooo , with cylinder pressures peaking on the nitrous , i'm thinking of phasing the rotor allowing for the 12* retard.

Any one else had to do this? , really don't want to run a crank trigger , although a lot easier.

I'm no expert on this stuff, but here's my thoughts anyway...

When you pull out timing useing the nitrous controller, surely that's done electronically rather than anything physically moving in the distributor? So if the phasing is correct in the first place, pulling out a bunch of timing with a controller won't do anything to the phasing. Now then, I would think that checking the phasing with a light, when timing has been taken out via the controller will just give you a false image won't it?