Mopar Muscle Association UK

AllKiller wrote: Also, why hasnt anyone tried to make a Pro tourer Cuda, Chally, whatever, using the Ferguson Four wheel drive from a Jensen FF

They did. Jensen had 3 x 383 1970 ? Challengers delivered to them by Chrysler for modification to 4WD. Nothing came of it. Hugh claimed to own one of them at one point. Although it has lost all its running gear.

Ford had the conversion done on some 1970 Mustangs so there was obviously some interest in doing this at that time.

Great on the motorway , but using on the strip forget it...........i run out of rpm just before the traps (6200) , so have to switch to OD , reckon it loses 3/10ths off the et , should be fine with the new build though.

Is there no way of using a modern lockup torque convertor or even a switch pitch torque convertor on older auto boxes ?

Someone surely must make a conversion unit ?

I could manually lock the TC on the Buick (usually after the change in to third gear) and it was consistently worth 2 to 3 mph on the quarter mile. Most lockup convertors unlock when you hit the brake pedal. Indeed, you could check that the lockup was working by flicking the brake pedal as you were driving. The TC would unlock and revs would jump about 400-500 rpm, before it locked up again within a second or so. It was a handy feature and those old TH200-4R gearboxes with the lockup proved to be very tough units, capable of living quite happily with minor mods behind some very powerful turbo sixes. I would have thought that a lockup convertor would be a simpler and cheaper step to an overdrive ?

Also, many Buicks in the sixties came with switch pitch convertors with a hydraulic system that altered the angle of the stator blades. You got a higher stall, typically 2500-2800 rpm off idle and then a lower stall, 1500rpm, at any other time. Latterly, aftermarket switch pitches were sold with electrical activation and could either be activated off the brake pedal (allowing the building of revs against the convertor on the line), or just by a foot switch (most usually another floor headlight dip switch).

I knew someone in the US who had a stout 455 in an early eighties deuce and a quarter (Electra 225) and the switch pitch made a huge difference, especially for such a big and heavy car.

By the way, nice to see you back. Enjoy spending your money

Brutus wrote:Great on the motorway , but using on the strip forget it...........i run out of rpm just before the traps (6200) , so have to switch to OD , reckon it loses 3/10ths off the et , should be fine with the new build though.

you must have the rear gearing wrong then brutus??? robbo reckons his et,s quicker cause off the venders ???

"Gay" gears for a 'vendor



Only messin'

The rpm you cross the line at is to do with the axle gear and not the GV unit.

You need to decide if you are using 3 gears or 4. At the moment it is 3 and a bit.

Using all 4 gears will improve the ET only if you use them to reach your shift point at the line.

Splitting the 2nd and 3rd gears with the overdrive will improve the ET even more (5 shifts) unless you have a remarkably flat power curve but will require a different axle gear again.

The new engine will probably need different gears anyway. Your existing gear might even end up being the right one.

Speed and ET are all down to the use of gears. The more gears you use the faster the car will be. It is simple physics.

4:10s , just can't see the time it takes to 'flick' the switch can help much , may aswell go 4 speed.

I doubt your shift point is at the correct rpm either Adam.

Think your right Dave , 6200 , prob to late.

Anyhow , not gonna spend any more $$$$$ , gonna stay as it is.

Brutus wrote:Think your right Dave , 6200 , prob to late.

Probably too early actually. Show me a graph of your power curve and I can tell you what your ideal shift points for each gear are.

As Brutus says, there is little point.

It seems he is building a torque monster, (ideal for a heavy car) and that will change all the parameters. Get that Wallet open...

Best go diesel next, mate

Torque is one thing. But the HP curve would have to be dead flat for at least 4000rpm at peak for gears not to matter.

Hauser's calculated that I am getting massive slip in the Torque Convertor in Julie's Dart - dropping about 5mph at the top end. That may also be a factor to consider on the new build.

big flat torque curve

2.77:1 gears

and just delete the gearbox

or a cone and belt variator works nice on a 2 stroke scoot

i'll get me coat

dave

Nope. HP and not torque is what gives you speed.