Mopar Muscle Association UK

Brutus wrote:Well , after havin the crank crack tested , ground .010 (mains & rods) , rods ground for clearance (.007) ..................mocked the bottom end up & found #7 & 8 rod Bananarama! the clinder walls (rod caps sit higher) , was thinking of chamfering the rod bolts but was told to clearance the walls instead , all gotta come out again , will check all cylinders for clearance.

One step forward ten back.

Brutus, might be a pain in the arse mate, but I think you are doing things the right way. Always good to check, double check & check again once more for luck.

I also agree with the direction on clearancing the walls & not the rod bolts. Very easy to cause stress riser, when grinding items such as bolts. I know it can be done carefully, graining & then polishing. But on the plus side, if you ever want to change rod bolts, its a direct swap.

As you always say, better to do it right once...

Cheers,
Mark . . .

Yep , do it right the first time , a little Bananarama! off with the CR bein so low so just hacked off @ the mo , will pull it all appart tommorow , good thing #7 & 8 Bananarama! , as probably would'nt of checked due to the previous rods clearing ok.

Keep at it Ad wish i could offer some useful input but out of my depth here other than to give some encouragement

Sums up my position perfectly! But it never hurts to offer encouragement, so hope it starts to go straight soon. I like reading these threads, they teach me lots when I can get me head round 'em.

Every cloud eh Ad, get the old Dremmel out and it will be done in no time.
Al would have let it grind itself away

Very funny Bob [not]

Knightcharger wrote:Every cloud eh Ad, get the old Dremmel out and it will be done in no time.

Not as easy as it seems Bob , thought i'd have it sorted in no time...............

Layed the crank in , placed a rod cap & bearing on the rod journal with rod bolt , spun crank & cap then started clearancing the bottom of bore where it hits , then thought to meself the rod bolt did'nt foul this much with the rod & piston in the bore , so would be takin too much off ...........

Gotta be done with the piston & rod in the bore or too much will be taken off , problem bein the block has to be cleaned every time you drop the crank , pistons & rods in................that ole die grinder spits iron dust EVERYWHERE , doin one @ a time is a nightmare.

Good job it's only a baby 4.625 stroke , must be a pig with a 4.75 stroke.

There's not a great deal to come off , maybe .060 thou , leaving around .050 clearance , block has already been clearanced for the last set of rods , but the K1s have the rod bolts slightly over to one side , plus the fact the cap sits slightly higher , gotts have a steady/firm hand , don't want the carbide bit throwing itself up the cylinder wall.

2 down 6 to go.

10" slicks on the rear , no problem me thinks , tis one heavy bitch.

aint it an ally block mate whats the weight diff ?

Tis a CI block.

by the time you got the motor sorted mate and fitted you gona be like a racing pigeon anyway thats worth a 10th up the strip just messin mate sounds like you getting there keep on it, some good work there

challenger wrote:by the time you got the motor sorted mate and fitted you gona be like a racing pigeon anyway thats worth a 10th up the strip just messin mate sounds like you getting there keep on it, some good work there

You wanna see a racin pigeon in season go take a look @ Blue , was up @ his workshop the other day , threw the old steel alt pully away & had a billet one made up (true) also saw the slim fast book on his bench.

Ole Blue was havin heart tremors thinkin about the weight of the Pit.

Knightcharger wrote: Al would have let it grind itself away

always wondered what the two batteries were for.

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