Heater unit removal, water pipe bypass?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Apr 05, 09 8:15 pm

Hey , i'm just pointing out the fact how the cooling system works , why plug the heater hose lines when you can use the bypass , some may not suffer any problems as the stat will open when it detects heat from the block , does'nt have to be immersed in water to operate , why let the block suffer with local overheating? a sure way to speed up limescale deposits , cast iron blocks don't suffer to well regards stratification , this is what happens when a bypass is'nt fitted , but i bet that block won't fair as well as a block that's had the cooling system operating correctly.

If the heater hoses are blanked off remove stat or use a restrictor , period.

Ever see a race motor using a stat?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Apr 05, 09 8:23 pm

Rich, just overhaul the heater and stick it back in.

You'll be glad you did in the long run.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Apr 05, 09 8:43 pm

You don't wanna know how many cast iron heat exchanger sections i've had to replace over the years , all due to no bypass or the bypass has been isolated.........without water 'circulating' through the block a few cylinders can overheat more than others , a constant flow of water running through the block will limit any hot spots.

Food for thought.

andyrob · Post by **andyrob** » Mon Apr 06, 09 7:51 am

brutal my be correct, big red is plugged & now it sitting there with a cracked block, coinsidence maybe ? broken yes

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Apr 06, 09 8:50 am

It is indeed food for thought.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Apr 06, 09 10:20 am

Cheers for all this guys, much appreciated.

I am just going to bypass it for now and then maybe some time in the future I will buy a new heater core and reinstall it (cheers Clivey)

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Apr 06, 09 10:30 am

If it was a road car, I would certainly obtain a core and re-install.

JohnR · Post by **JohnR** » Mon Apr 06, 09 11:04 am

Must be a rad repair place near you they can re core it and you can put it back in

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Apr 06, 09 11:07 am

I'll investigate. Any ideas Dave?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Apr 06, 09 11:29 am

There used to be a cheap radiator re-core service in a lane (Back - Goldspink lane?) off Sandyford Road.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Apr 06, 09 11:33 am

Brutus wrote:You don't wanna know how many cast iron heat exchanger sections i've had to replace over the years , all due to no bypass or the bypass has been isolated.........without water 'circulating' through the block a few cylinders can overheat more than others , a constant flow of water running through the block will limit any hot spots.

Food for thought.

Sounds like a bulk purchase of the NPT fittings for the pump housing!

Can you get these Brutal; are they "standard plumbing fare"???

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Apr 06, 09 12:03 pm

Yeah Some sort of braided hose or hard line job might look the best.

If someone came up with a neat little kit to suit both types of big block water pump housing they could do a little business.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Apr 06, 09 1:02 pm

Nahhh! They will probably end up being 1/2" copper with compression fittings

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Apr 06, 09 1:04 pm

Pete wrote:Nahhh! They will probably end up being 1/2" copper with compression fittings

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Mon Apr 06, 09 1:08 pm

Dave wrote:......to suit both types of big block water pump housing they could do a little business.

Apart from the "exit" side difference, i thought there was only one basic type. The Top is surely the same