How does the kickdown linkage fit?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Mar 18, 05 12:22 pm

Sorry Dave, one last question, on your set up, did you instal the kerb idle solenoid that fixes to the side of the inlet manifold on the drivers side? What are the implications of leaving it out, and what does it do?

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Mar 18, 05 12:59 pm

When it is active (i.e. the engine is running) it presses against the idle speed adjustment screw, raising it slightly.

So when the idle speed is set it is against the solenoid.

Turn the ignition off and the solenoid pulls back, dropping the idle speed screw more and completely closing the throttle blades.

This was to prevent run-on.

Most people don't bother with it. I don't. But a correct restoration should. There are a few types. Only one is correct for a restoration and of course is the one that is hard to get.

I have had a little bit of run-on on the odd occasion but I could count the number of times on one hand.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Mar 18, 05 1:44 pm

By "run on", I take it you mean the engine continues running a couple of seconds after the ignition is switched off? So the solenoid I would assume takes its supply from the coil. Engine running, solenoid energised, plunger extended and idle speed raised. Ignition off, solenoid looses feed, plunger retracts shutting off throttle completely and hey presto endgine stops running. Interesting little feature that.

I might just keep my eyes open for one. I am going to assume from your comment the one Year One sells, does the same job but aint the correct one. Dont really know if I should bother with all that cos my car will have electronic ignition and a mini-starter on anyway. I would like a resto (albeit cloned) with the right bits, but common sense says upgrade some of the bits to improve driveability.

I wonder why there was a need for that solenoid in the first place? Sounds like additional engineering to make up for a deficiency elsewhere. Maybe there was an issue with the throttle body warping slightly causing the shaft to bind, preventing the throttle blades to close completely and the solenoid was put in to avoid the problems.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Mar 18, 05 1:58 pm

Clivey wrote:By "run on", I take it you mean the engine continues running a couple of seconds after the ignition is switched off?

Correct!

So the solenoid I would assume takes its supply from the coil.

You will find that if you use the six pack engine wiring harness that there is a wire with a connector on the end for that solenoid. It comes from the 'run' side of the ballast resistor I think. Same thing as saying from the coil.

I might just keep my eyes open for one. I am going to assume from your comment the one Year One sells, does the same job but aint the correct one.

Can't remember. I have some information about six pack restoration in a mag somewhere I think. If I remember and if I have time I will dig it out.

I wonder why there was a need for that solenoid in the first place?

Many cars use something to prevent run-on. When you turn the ignition off it kills the spark plugs but sometimes the heat and compression in the chamber are enough to make the odd cylinder fire one or two times despite the lack of spark. I think compression might be the big factor because six packs were 10.5:1 I think were they not?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Mar 18, 05 2:23 pm

six packs were 10.5:1 I think were they not

Yep, thats correct. Would be interested at a peek at that article if it turns up Dave.

Many thanks

I learned something today

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue May 10, 05 8:30 pm

Clive. I found that reference (a three page colour spread) about the idle solenoids. I will scan it and send you the whole article to your e-mail address.

But just to give an answer in this thread...

Carb idle solenoids were used on all;
'69 1/2 440 six pack,
'70 340 and 440 six pack,
'70 and '71 AVS equipped engines,
and '70-'71 Hemi engines.

Guess what? They were different part numbers and usually physically different in some way every year and in every application.

For correct restoration on a 1970 440 six pack you need one with the ID number DR1114429 and it should have an adjustable ROUND brass head on the plunger. There would also be a special bracket fixed by one manifold bolt to hold the wire.

Alex · Post by **Alex** » Tue May 10, 05 9:14 pm

And good luck finding one ! there is a Moparts member who posts on the A12 forum that makes pretty good reproduction ones though

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed May 11, 05 9:41 am

Thanks for hanging on in there Dave. Well, I contacted the guy and he sent me the whole linkkage and bracket. I only need the kickdown bell crank (he said smugly cos he found out that is what it is called) and I have to send him the rest back.

I got my installation kit and brand new set of carbs and I have to say, they look 10 times more aoppealing than my girlfreind. I cant keep my eyes offem. The carbs that is

By the way, I have sent you a PM for details of where to send you some money for the models, and some bolt queries.

Cheers
again