Mopar Muscle Association UK

Have you marked the rims and tyres to see if the tyre is slipping on the rims at all Adam ?? lotta grunt and drugs there mate,
If this is happening and it obviously wont be in sync on each side, could give a similar effect...just a thought

Hi Adam, Stiff side walls and tubes will help. If you can't screw into the wheels, mark the tyre to the rim, do a burn out and just a launch. Check for tyre movement. They probably won't move if fitted properly.

You need to control the weight transfer more with a heavy car. Blue's right. Put more camber on the front and toe-in front wheels 15/20 minutes. that will control wander.

Don't think 10/90 shocks are a good idea for your car. They will help the car to transfer weight to the back on the hit but in the run you are taking front weight control away. It's front end heavy. If you can put an anti roll bar on the front that will stop weight transfer side to side and lower the rear if it's high and windup the shocks. That will stop the front weight rolling the slicks.

With all that weight it's going to have some movement across the lane.
Go with it, if you really have to lift then there are problems to resolve.

One thing at a time, then you can understand the changes you have made to the car.

Hope this helps.

Brutus wrote:Might help with tubes but never ran them as i could'nt drill the rims for the screws with the wheels i was using.

I think the stiff wall slicks are for heavy cars , also for cars with good suspension , there must be a reason they manufacture them , you're probably right dunc it may be a suspension problem , but if i get hold of some stiff walls then i can eliminate the tyres being the problem , gotta get new slicks anyhow as mine are shagged.

Somee of the heavy cars inthe states are running the caltracs with preload backed off & shocks set to minimum rebound , they say the car is pretty unstable otherwise , gonna back the preload off & fiddle with the shock settings & see what happens.
Done a few to many runs to think this is the normal way the car should behave , gotta be something amiss somewhere.

The only other thing i can think is the gas comes in full chat @ 6000rpm (my mistake & did'nt realise till the other day), before this the controller gives it only 50 % , maybe when it gets a full shot this is when it gets unstable.

AllKiller wrote:Have you marked the rims and tyres to see if the tyre is slipping on the rims at all Adam ?? lotta grunt and drugs there mate,
If this is happening and it obviously wont be in sync on each side, could give a similar effect...just a thought

While I've been writing you jumped in first you monkey!!! have you fix your motor yet?
Cheers mate.

Ha Ha
Yep sorted mate thanks...still be needing a little advice in the near future

Ok Steve when you're ready mate.

AllKiller wrote:Ha Ha
Yep sorted mate thanks...still be needing a little advice in the near future

Thanks chaps , tis all good info , will mark the tyres also , already ordered the 90/10 shocks , least it can't run any slower.

Good to hear from you Paul.

Adam, Screw both sides of the rim, you knew that...
only at Hausers once Geof showed me a car with only the front side of the rim screwed ??

Interesting thread this.

One more thing to check is shock length. Mine were on the short side so if you jacked the chassis up the axle could only drop an inch or two as the shocks were at their max extension.
So I fitted cheap shock extensions and the car launches better and feels a lot more stable on the track.
Probably nothing to do with the problem you are having Adam but I thought worth a mention just in case.

Good point Dave, easy to check and cheap to fix

another is settled down springs and then the car sitting on the pinion snubber, that makes an interesting ride,

Dunc said 'that makes an interesting ride, '...after a local Portreath drag session i forgot to take the snubber down. Very scary on the first bend

Is there any possibility of combined slight wear in steering components setting up a pendulum effect? Is this why a lot of the faster cars go over to rack/pinion set up to avoid so many moving parts?

Also anything passed 120mph in a B body I found air underneath was starting to lift the front of the car making the steering very light

R&P is usually selected on a Mopar as part of the deal to ditch steering box and then torsion bars. for more header clearance and pan clearance.

I think the basic problem is you (all of us) are pushing the boundaries on what these things were designed to do and are capable of doing without serious modification.

Will see how it performs next time out , ditched the 3:55s & fitted the 4:10s back in there , also modified the nitrous setup , with the stiff wall slicks , different shocks , tweeking the caltracs @ more lift on the front end might just get the bitch moving.