Rover auto box (BW35), anyone know 'em?

db · Post by db » Thu Sep 16, 10 10:24 am

Thanks Martin, i'll let you know once i've sorted all the lack-of-maintenance issues

Of course it would be wise to have a spare knocking around.....

db · Post by db » Thu Sep 30, 10 5:55 pm

Well i've tinkered off & on for days now and still can't get the motor to rev over 3,000.
Fluid still peeing out the cooler pipes, still won't change to top when cold & now it seems to be trying to start off in top gear!

It's nearly Big Stick Time

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Fri Oct 01, 10 12:50 am

db wrote:Well i've tinkered off & on for days now and still can't get the motor to rev over 3,000.
Fluid still peeing out the cooler pipes, still won't change to top when cold & now it seems to be trying to start off in top gear!

It's nearly Big Stick Time

IT REALLY DOES SOUND LIKE THE TRANS IS DYING PAUL,
THE NO UPSHIFTS IS THE GOVORNER?VALVE BODY, STICKING SAME WITH THE STARTING OFF IN TOP GEAR MUST BE DEBRI FLOATING AROUND FROM SOMEWHERE KNOW YOUR ON A BUDJET WILL TAKE A LOOK AT IT IF NEEDED,

db · Post by db » Fri Oct 01, 10 9:11 am

Cheers Dunc. I'm starting to accept that you're probaly right

By the way it's actually a BW65 but i think they're basically the same workings aren't they?

Would driving it low on fluid repeatedly cause it to die? I have failed miserably- cos the pipes to the cooler are such a lash-up it leaks out faster than i can top it up. I think i'll have to actually pay to have some proper pipes made up

I'm gonna splash out on electronic dissy innards and a new coil too

db · Post by db » Fri Oct 01, 10 9:14 am

I'm wondering too if that runny pink fluid i had to chuck in to get me home has done some damage, or if some of it remained and mixed in with the proper stuff

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Fri Oct 01, 10 10:49 am

65 is tougher i think

some 65 parts can be used to make a 35 handle a lot more torque.

Dave

Post by **TyreFryer** » Fri Oct 01, 10 11:39 am

Come to think of it, I think it's a 65 I have, seem to remember it was a 65 in the Jags and a 35 in the Rovers and I went for the 65 because I was told it was stronger.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Fri Oct 01, 10 4:32 pm

been doing a little motch

seemingly these trans's have thin steel pipes that are pressed into the valve body

give em too much abuse and they come adrift

i.e banging it into first
not comeing to a stop before slapping it into reverse and keep ing the revs high

anything causing pressure to be too high for the action you are doing

symptom is related to which ever pipe comes out

once out tapping (as in gentle thump) back in means they come out in half the time the next time...

a girdle that keeps a bit of pressure on them to stop this can be rigged

anyway i know nout this is just hear say from another site

Dave

db · Post by db » Fri Oct 01, 10 8:07 pm

Well i remember the pressed in pipes from when i pulled it to bits a few years ago and i can easily imagine a bit of too much pressure popping one out, i'm sure Dunc will know if it's a known problem!

A guy in our local Guzzlers club may have a box, i'll find out tomorrow.

Dunc & TF- Thanks for the offers chaps, i'll keep you both posted

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Fri Oct 01, 10 9:08 pm

i have never seen a pipe come adrift on the valve body, and i must honestly of stripped circa 1000 65/35 transmissions maybe more. the 65 is a uprated 35 but i cant see the difference they are externaly very different but inside they are the same, not like a 904 is very small compared to the 727, running them low is a problem as the clutches still operate where as most transmissions drop out of drive and come back in with a bang when low on fluid,
there was also a bw 66 this was found in series 3 jags and sd1 rovers they did have thicker input shafts etc.
get the cooler pipes sorted and proper levels and see what goes

db · Post by db » Sat Oct 02, 10 5:00 pm

Dammit! Ged had 2 good BW65's knocking around for years and only recently got rid, one had done 40k miles

He does have easily the best SD1 i've ever seen tho, attention to detail is astonishing... http://guzzlerskarklub.freeforums.org/g ... -t510.html
It's a 4.9 and goes as well as it looks! I like his line- 'SD1's are more than just a donor engine'

I've taken the cooler and all the leaky pipework off and replaced with a long loop of pipe behind the grille- should be fine if we don't get a sudden heatwave. The fluid is definitely the right level now.
I'm not gonna bother trying it again til i've got the elec dissy and new coil (in a few days) It misfires so badly over 2,500 i can't properly tell what the trans is doing.

Post by **TyreFryer** » Sat Oct 02, 10 7:37 pm

Duncan is there an easy way to identify whether it's a 35, 65 or 66?

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Sat Oct 02, 10 8:56 pm

TyreFryer wrote:Duncan is there an easy way to identify whether it's a 35, 65 or 66?

yes bw 35 has a metal plate on the side and will say type 35 if missing it has a very square sump and has small bolt holes 5 i think that hold the bell housing on the holes are not threaded,
the 65/66 again has a metal plate on the side if missing it has large threaded holes in the front that the bellhousing bolts to and the sump is longer than the width, hope that helps if you really needed to know if its a 65 or a 66 then measure the input shaft and let me know

Post by **TyreFryer** » Sat Oct 02, 10 9:03 pm

Cheers Duncan, I'll have a look tomorrow. You know your onions mate!

db · Post by db » Sat Nov 13, 10 7:36 pm

Well i've eventually got round to dropping the trans.
Had to do it in my Dads drive in the end- NO STAINS ON THE CONCRETE SO FAR

Whizzed it over to Dr Dunc this affy, what damage will he find i wonder?