Mopar Muscle Association UK

OK nobb time here!!

I have been told that my Barracuda has a Sure-Grip diff and that the Aussie Charger has the Open Diff. Whats the main difference? What will I nitice on the road ect?

The main difference is that with an open diff when you loose grip under one wheel all the driving force goes into that wheel and the other one does nothing.

A limited slip diff drives both wheels even if you loose grip under one.
So when drag racing for instance both wheels drive you forward even if one or the other slips a bit.

The advantage of an open diff is that the car corners better but can loose traction when you put the welly in.

With a limited slip diff you can apply the power better but one wheel drags slightly on corners.

Also with limited slip or locked diffs if you do really loose all grip under one wheel the car will do a sharp turn and hit something.

Cheers Dave, quality answer,mate!!

Guy wrote: but you do have to adjust your driving style and you soon learn which corners you can drive around and those you coast around

Well there you are then. I knew I was right to stick with the SureGrip. Coast around corners? Sorry lads. It's part throttle into the apex and full throttle by the exit for my fun.

Well Ok maybe not on mini roundabouts but you get the idea.

Still got the original Sure Grip in my axle. 36 years it's been in there doing it's thing. Still works fine. Maybe someone should tell it that it can't take the power or abuse.

Of course I shouldn't have said that without some wood to touch.....

Glad to hear you are getting on ok with the Locker Guy, I've heard mixed reports. Suspected my sure grip was knackered from the start but decided to drop it out tonight and have a look. Sure enough both cones have bottomed out, more so on the right hand side. All else looks good so I might have a go at the cheap fix and get the cones turned at work tomorrow. I will also have to shim the pinion gears I think, but can't remember how that's done.

Just found the Mopar Muscle article and it says you need to machine the cone ends and add spacer shims behind the side gears. I surpose this means if you take 50 thou off the cones, add 50 thou shims. Anyone done this?

Yep I've done it and it works, as you say the shim thickness should be equal to the amount you take off the bottom of the cones.

I took 2mm off the back of the cones and made up a couple of 2mm shims but I couldn't get the sure grip casings back together. Had to make a couple of 1mm shims and that seems to have done the job. Just been out laying two black lines everywhere instead of one, well pleased.