Metal cutting advice

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Sat Jan 14, 12 8:47 am

Angle grinder and the thin discs, though i do rather like my plasma cutter! Now that is fast!

db · Post by db » Sat Jan 14, 12 9:25 am

With a bit of practice you can use these like a surgeons blade

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-1-2-ANGLE-G ... 23079694b8
1

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Jan 14, 12 9:34 am

Hi Matt,

If your compressor isn't up for an air grinder use a good quality electric SawsAll.
Make a 2inch cut with the thin disc cutter and use a line of masking tape for a blade guide and saw away merrily!
The steeper the angle you use the saw-blade the more aggressive it will cut.
So use a long blade and use a very shallow angle and use no pressure on da blade.
Always cut near a swage line, that way the remaining panel says strong.

Good luck from Bacca.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sat Jan 14, 12 9:44 am

I have used them and they are very quick.

Buy LOTS of them because they wear out VERY quick and are VERY prone to breakage.

I am stating the obvious but eye protection is ESSENTIAL with these.....

db · Post by db » Sat Jan 14, 12 10:50 am

Pete wrote:I have used them and they are very quick.

Buy LOTS of them because they wear out VERY quick and are VERY prone to breakage.

I am stating the obvious but eye protection is ESSENTIAL with these.....

74challenger318 · Post by **74challenger318** » Sat Jan 14, 12 2:08 pm

as mentioned use a 1mm cutting disc, i usually cut through both panels to get a straight join and then use these http://www.frost.co.uk/intergrip-welding-clamps.html to clamp in place

Post by **MattH** » Mon Jan 16, 12 11:52 am

Thanks guys for all the fors and against.
Paul that is a lovely looking joint you have there. I have some of those panel clamps, I have not tried them yet as I've always gone the joddled joint route, but following on from everyones advice here, I got some 1mm thick cutting discs and I am going to bite the bullet and try to butt weld the panels.
Its the rear 1/4 panel on the Challenger.

Bacca, Ive done what you said about staying close to a swage line for strength, and have just cut a brand new year one panel in half so I just use the bottom section below the swage.

That took a few deep breaths before cutting into that new panel, very much a clenched buttocks moment!!

Pics when I have something worth showing.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Jan 16, 12 12:43 pm

As I advised Will the other day. I really would not try to but weld flat panel areas. Not unless you are very skilled. Curved or rounded areas are not too much problem. But flat panels will weld much easier with an overlap.

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Mon Jan 16, 12 1:03 pm

I would joggle flat panels, drill and plug weld, it easy, it's strong and virtually eliminates warping.

Post by **MattH** » Mon Jan 16, 12 1:22 pm

Ivor wrote:I would joggle flat panels, drill and plug weld, it easy, it's strong and virtually eliminates warping.

I have a decent joddler with a hole stamp head for plug welding. I have used it for years.

I havent yet cut to butt weld, its overlapped at the moment awaiting alignment and getting the wheelarch well repaired up to where the wing will be.

Perhaps joddle will be better, and thick body seal in the boot to reduce the visibility of the overlap joint.

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Mon Jan 16, 12 2:04 pm

Don't take this the wrong way Matt, but as your car is what many would call "driver quality"

and you actually use it, I would go with the joggled repair and not worry about the seam showing inside.

As you say, you can Bananarama! it with the "factory look" sound deadening with some textured stonechip and Bob's your uncle.

74challenger318 · Post by **74challenger318** » Tue Jan 17, 12 1:50 pm

Matt, nicked that picture of internet, i only butt weld long joints that can be seen both sides, other than that joggling is best, you can get a joggler that also punches out holes for plug welding,

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... hole-punch

or to save time a air powered one like mine

http://air-tools.co.uk/Product/SY-SA36

are you ready for rear panel, pm me your address and i will get in post to you.

Paul

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Jan 17, 12 6:22 pm

Dave wrote:As I advised Will the other day. I really would not try to but weld flat panel areas. Not unless you are very skilled. Curved or rounded areas are not too much problem. But flat panels will weld much easier with an overlap.

And i did listen and try but cut one pannel to short

By the time im finshed i will have so much polly filler in them in cant be good. So i have order so fiber pannels from VFS

They also do rear quaters ??

Post by **MattH** » Tue Jan 17, 12 9:46 pm

74challenger318 wrote:Matt, nicked that picture of internet, i only butt weld long joints that can be seen both sides, other than that joggling is best, you can get a joggler that also punches out holes for plug welding,

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... hole-punch

or to save time a air powered one like mine

http://air-tools.co.uk/Product/SY-SA36

are you ready for rear panel, pm me your address and i will get in post to you.

Paul

I thought that was some of your welding on the Chally!
That machine mart tool is exactly the one I have, great bit of kit, had it about 20 years now. I don't think my compressor is up to running tools, only a spray gun really, as its a 50 litre.

Ivor - you are spot on, joddle here we come!