Pertronix Coil.....again!!
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Thanks guys, almost there. So let me clarify a couple of things.
The only really iffy connection here was the connection from the 'BMT' to the alternator. This should infact be comming from the Alternator regulator, i.e, the connection currently on the horn (if you'll excuse the expression!). Understandable how previous owner would have got these swapped around as they have the same plug and come out in approximately the same area.
The reason for the 'BMT' is the inclusion of the electronic ignition control (which I had thought was the regulator). Now I know which box is which I guesss this makes a bit more sense. So theoretically, to return things to 'stock' I need to remove the ECU and follow the wiring diagram (easy peasy) though this would make the dizzy as is, innoperable. However, I have the Pertronix ignitor, so if I excclude the ECU and just stuff the ignitor in the dizzy, does that mean that I'm sorted? This does rais ethe question of whether the Dizzy is a special mopar unit that cannot be converted in the same way as a regular points one. If not I guess I either need a new standard points dizzy, or to leave the existing system in place.
Am I on the right track and do either of you know if I can put a pertronix ignitor into a mopar electronic ignition dizzy?!
Thanks, thanks and thanks again!
The only really iffy connection here was the connection from the 'BMT' to the alternator. This should infact be comming from the Alternator regulator, i.e, the connection currently on the horn (if you'll excuse the expression!). Understandable how previous owner would have got these swapped around as they have the same plug and come out in approximately the same area.
The reason for the 'BMT' is the inclusion of the electronic ignition control (which I had thought was the regulator). Now I know which box is which I guesss this makes a bit more sense. So theoretically, to return things to 'stock' I need to remove the ECU and follow the wiring diagram (easy peasy) though this would make the dizzy as is, innoperable. However, I have the Pertronix ignitor, so if I excclude the ECU and just stuff the ignitor in the dizzy, does that mean that I'm sorted? This does rais ethe question of whether the Dizzy is a special mopar unit that cannot be converted in the same way as a regular points one. If not I guess I either need a new standard points dizzy, or to leave the existing system in place.
Am I on the right track and do either of you know if I can put a pertronix ignitor into a mopar electronic ignition dizzy?!
Thanks, thanks and thanks again!
Last edited by Anonymous on Sat Jul 02, 05 10:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thats pretty much it mate! Personally I would leave the ignition as is rather than go petronox as the Mopar set up is tried and tested and works fine, I would re-wire it and use soldered connectors etc
As for the dizzy, it depends on how the signal is recieved, if the Petronix uses a piece that pushes over the points cam then you have a problem, the reluctor will press of the dizzy shaft ok but you cant get the points cam, it is part of the shaft on a stock dizzy as far as I know.
As for the dizzy, it depends on how the signal is recieved, if the Petronix uses a piece that pushes over the points cam then you have a problem, the reluctor will press of the dizzy shaft ok but you cant get the points cam, it is part of the shaft on a stock dizzy as far as I know.
Cool, so I just need to make sure the alternator has the right connection, make the BMT a bit tidier and just leave well alone until I get around to a proper rewire under the hood.
Thanks chaps for all your help, next time I see Neil/Wil, there will be a bottle of prefered falling down water, so Alex you just need to give me your adddress so I can send a little something in the post for your help.
Actually, if you are interested I could bung the petronix ignitor over to you if you could use it, or I have a very nice chrome master cylinder cover, the type with the sprung arm to hold it in place. I bought it on the net, but mine is the type with the bolt through it so it is very much surplus to requirements. If it suits your car then I'd be happy to wing it over by way of thanks.
Oh, and is that hood still going? Bryan popped over the other day for a cuppa and to drop off a power stearing pump,and he mentioned taking his van on a raod trip to pick it up and go for a beer with you.
Thanks chaps for all your help, next time I see Neil/Wil, there will be a bottle of prefered falling down water, so Alex you just need to give me your adddress so I can send a little something in the post for your help.
Actually, if you are interested I could bung the petronix ignitor over to you if you could use it, or I have a very nice chrome master cylinder cover, the type with the sprung arm to hold it in place. I bought it on the net, but mine is the type with the bolt through it so it is very much surplus to requirements. If it suits your car then I'd be happy to wing it over by way of thanks.
Oh, and is that hood still going? Bryan popped over the other day for a cuppa and to drop off a power stearing pump,and he mentioned taking his van on a raod trip to pick it up and go for a beer with you.
I haven't tested it yet, I still haven't drilled the new alternator bracket, but basically everything is remaining 'as is' with the following exceptions:
1/ The red cable from the BMT that was feeding the alt, now feeds the positive side of the Pertronix coil. This is before the resistor.
2/ The dark green wire from the regulator is no longer connected to the horn, but now goes to the alternator.
3/ The old sensor feeds are still in place so I can connect up everything properly when I get the time, and the new feeds have been bundled up in the loom with all the other cables.
Couldn't get it done in time for the Guildford cruise but I should be back on the road ready for next weekend.
Thanks for the help chaps.
1/ The red cable from the BMT that was feeding the alt, now feeds the positive side of the Pertronix coil. This is before the resistor.
2/ The dark green wire from the regulator is no longer connected to the horn, but now goes to the alternator.
3/ The old sensor feeds are still in place so I can connect up everything properly when I get the time, and the new feeds have been bundled up in the loom with all the other cables.
Couldn't get it done in time for the Guildford cruise but I should be back on the road ready for next weekend.
Thanks for the help chaps.
Alternator bracket is drilled and the new chrome jobbie is in the car. One connector is pretty obvious, big bolt and a nut, but the new alternator has two FLD terminals. The old one also had two, but one spade has been removed.
The only similarity (the connectors are not in the same place on the new alt) is that one of the connectors on each coil it lower than the other if you look at it side on with the unit resting on a table pully side down. The old alternator was connected by the higher connector, but I have no idea if this is a conventional set up or just a complete coincidence. Any idea which one I should be using?
I'm hoping Alex is reading this!!!!
The only similarity (the connectors are not in the same place on the new alt) is that one of the connectors on each coil it lower than the other if you look at it side on with the unit resting on a table pully side down. The old alternator was connected by the higher connector, but I have no idea if this is a conventional set up or just a complete coincidence. Any idea which one I should be using?
I'm hoping Alex is reading this!!!!
it matters not where the outputs are mate!
If you have a two field jobbie then ....
The one field connection feeds a dk blue wire, this goes to a multi connection (the one you found?) where it splits into three wires, one goes to the bulkhead plug (N) one goes to the supply side of the ballast and one to the I port on the regulator, I guess that is what you have now? in summery this lot goes hot with the key in run.
The other dk green goes to the F port of the voltage reg only.
Thing is a 68 should have a single field alt ! just the dk green wire, so to make sure it charges etc run a new wire from the ign side of the reg to the second field port and you should be ok.
If you have a two field jobbie then ....
The one field connection feeds a dk blue wire, this goes to a multi connection (the one you found?) where it splits into three wires, one goes to the bulkhead plug (N) one goes to the supply side of the ballast and one to the I port on the regulator, I guess that is what you have now? in summery this lot goes hot with the key in run.
The other dk green goes to the F port of the voltage reg only.
Thing is a 68 should have a single field alt ! just the dk green wire, so to make sure it charges etc run a new wire from the ign side of the reg to the second field port and you should be ok.
Been busy with a handbag contract (really, just don't ask, all jokes write themselves!) but have finally gotten around to test firing the Sat. When it finally ran it was all over the fricking shop. I guess its a timing problem, I need to pinch fathers strobe to check it, but if anyone has any other bright ideas then feel free to throw your hat in the ring.
Just to intervene,
For points dizzy's The pertronics unit does not fit over the points cam, it fits where the points used to sit and has a pick up that fits directly over the points cam, but only fit's specific Dizzy's.
You must order the correct Ignitor/ Dizzy kit.
I fitted one in my 383 accel dizzy and it ran like a top 12's in fact
If it is an mopar electronic dizzy leave it alone, you wont see a difference.
Check that all the spark plugs are ok
check all the leads and connections for firing order ok
has the dizzy been out ??
did you put it back correctly not 180 degrees out ??
then check the timing.
For points dizzy's The pertronics unit does not fit over the points cam, it fits where the points used to sit and has a pick up that fits directly over the points cam, but only fit's specific Dizzy's.
You must order the correct Ignitor/ Dizzy kit.
I fitted one in my 383 accel dizzy and it ran like a top 12's in fact
If it is an mopar electronic dizzy leave it alone, you wont see a difference.
Check that all the spark plugs are ok
check all the leads and connections for firing order ok
has the dizzy been out ??
did you put it back correctly not 180 degrees out ??
then check the timing.
ALL KILLER NO FILLER
Nostalgia, its not what it used to be.
Carbon footprint of a Saturn V

Nostalgia, its not what it used to be.
Carbon footprint of a Saturn V
