Dana and 440 :?

db · Post by db » Thu May 03, 12 10:37 am

There's always the 9" option...

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Thu May 03, 12 10:49 am

Dave wrote: No idea why you are insisting on a 440 anyway when a 400 is so much stronger.

Im going blown on a budget so 440 is the way (cheap parts)
yes to make big hp i need a stroker 400 or turbo 400 i know and dont care.

out of the 440 blocks the later ones are better the camper is 1978 eg late

If its a 440 it will be a low compression motor. It not going to be forged internal or make 1000hp but should be able to take a little boost. Then later in life i can build a killer motor and turn up the boost.

Also i wont be to worried about doing a cheap rebuild then blowing it up and striping it as it cost me 21 quid.(young i need to learn first real engine rebuild)

The fun is in being under the car covered in oil not driving it

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Thu May 03, 12 10:52 am

db wrote:There's always the 9" option...

Thats a ford unit i would prefer to have a fanny implant

next i could install a 454 big block chevy. it would be like having sex with my sister

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu May 03, 12 11:03 am

autofetish wrote: The fun is in being under the car covered in oil not driving it

You will be having a lot of fun I am sure.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu May 03, 12 12:47 pm

Listen tp the old boy's will you know it makes sence.
here you go 460hp crate for $3500 ship it over in the monthly container.
Drums on the back will stop your arse finishing before your nose.

db · Post by db » Thu May 03, 12 1:58 pm

autofetish wrote:
db wrote:There's always the 9" option...

Thats a ford unit i would prefer to have a fanny implant

next i could install a 454 big block chevy. it would be like having sex with my sister

There ain't no F0rd parts in my 9", it just happens to share a lot of the same dimensions...

TYREMAN · Post by **TYREMAN** » Thu May 03, 12 2:00 pm

If he wanted it to be sensible he would have bought a GM

Nothing wrong with any of you buying a late 60s big block Ford in future,or a GM or Olds you can get a lot more for a lot less.I agree they are not as cool as a Mopar,but times are hard,its a big premium to pay just for a mopar.

I suppose that's why Mopar owners stand out from the crowd in the hobby.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu May 03, 12 3:44 pm

There is no discernible difference in 440 blocks, more wives's tales.........

For a street car a 9" Fraud is a good idea, light and strong...........Racing then give me a Dana (on a Mopar) any day!!

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Thu May 03, 12 3:55 pm

Pete wrote:There is no discernible difference in 440 blocks, more wives's tales.........

SOME 440's cast in '76 and later have CONSIDERABLY thicker main saddle supports. The only block we have found to have these supports are the 4006630-440 casting #, which was used from late 75 until the end of production in 1979. In case you have heard that 440's were discontinued in 1978, this was for cars only. 440's continued to be offered in trucks and motorhomes all through 1979, and we have had many 440 blocks stamped with the 1979 model year on them.

Shown below is a picture of a 4006630-440 (1978 model) 440 block. The "A" measurement typically is about 3.190". This is about 60% thicker than the early 440 blocks shown above. "B" typically measures about .520", which is still about 40% thicker. The blocks with these thicker supports were not cast during any specific date period. There is no external markings or numbers which show they are different from the other blocks. They DO seem to be more commonly used for truck motors, however just because you have a truck 440 does not mean it will automatically have the thicker main supports. One important fact is that while 4006630-440 casting # blocks are the only blocks we have found to have these thicker supports, not all these blocks will have them. There appears to be no other way to tell if a block has them or not other then actually looking at the supports themselves. Without the crank and rods removed from the block, it is very hard to tell.

http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu May 03, 12 10:09 pm

I dont understand your point here will?
Unless you are building a monster road engine?
If you were then you would use the stronger 400 block.
Also if you do have over 400hp, you will have to up rate the drive train which will cost as much as the engine and some.
Then the chassis is also suspect and you will need chassis stiffeners roll cage some cal tracks or similar, then normal road tires won't work and the car will end up a bastxxrd to drive and do about 5 miles to the gallon.
Many of us have been down this slippery slope and you end up with a 50k car that's worth 15k.
Just ask Adam and Al.
A fast road car is not necessarily a fast track car, the compromise on ratios is to big unless you are going to swap out diffs at the track.
You need to have a clear view of what you want to end up with.
The best Mopes I have driven or been driven in where much nearer stock than track.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu May 03, 12 10:11 pm

Knightcharger wrote:I dont understand your point here will?
Unless you are building a monster road engine?
If you were then you would use the stronger 400 block.
Also if you do have over 400hp, you will have to up rate the drive train which will cost as much as the engine and some.
Then the chassis is also suspect and you will need chassis stiffeners roll cage some cal tracks or similar, then normal road tires won't work and the car will end up a bastxxrd to drive and do about 5 miles to the gallon.
Many of us have been down this slippery slope and you end up with a 50k car that's worth 15k.
Just ask Adam and Al.
A fats road car is not necessarily a fast track car, the compromise on ratios is to big unless you are going to swap out diffs at the track.
You need to have a clear view of what you want to end up with.
The best Mopes I have driven or been driven in where much nearer stack than track.

For fats read fast for stacvk read stock

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Thu May 03, 12 10:21 pm

Knightcharger wrote:For fats read fast for stacvk read stock

There is an edit function, Fat fingers

Knightcharger wrote: Many of us have been down this slippery slope and you end up with a 50k car that's worth 15k

Or buy a £50k car for £15k

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu May 03, 12 10:26 pm

Just thought I would cheer you up Mark

Your not hacking my keyboard are you?

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Thu May 03, 12 10:28 pm

Knightcharger wrote:Just thought I would cheer you up Mark
Your not hacking my keyboard are you?

You always cheer me up

I can hack a panel to death, as for computers

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu May 03, 12 10:30 pm

Knightcharger wrote:The best Mopes I have driven or been driven in where much nearer stack than track.

I'll second that. I went too far with my Challenger to try and get it running 12 flat.

I should have settled for 13 flat and not tried to be clever. It would have been a much nicer car to drive on the street which is where it usually spent 99% of the time the bloody thing was actually running.