Mopar Muscle Association UK

Hi Dave.

Paint:
Your plate in the firewall (if that is still there) should have the colour on it. Like a Berger code or other.
Not sure what yours would have been, but try this for a reasonable idea of what came out of the factory:
http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/va ... ations.htm
scroll down the page and you should see a link to colour codes.

Transmission:
Yours is probably the standard TF904. These can be built strong enough. If you don't want to have ago at it yourself try Cannonball or Blue on here.
You could upgrade to a TF727 but then you will need to swap the yoke and shorten the tailshaft.
I would stick with the 904, build it strong.
Manual is an option but then you will need to hunt up the pedals etc. this may be difficult. But I am not certain of that.
Auto with overdrive. - I know there is one just can not remember much detail at the moment. Will dig up what I have and email to you.

Diff:
Check if it's LSD.

Engine:
273 & 318 have the same lugs on the block for engine mounts.
Slightly changed on (I think the left side only) for the 340 and 360, same for Magnum I believe.
You can get the correct mount, few places in the US make them if you can not find one. You can also pack out the 318 mount to make it fit the 360.

If you keep the TF904 and use a 360 or Magnum you will need the correct flexplate with balance weights on it.
The 273 318 & 340 with forged crank (not the ones with cast crank) were all internal balance and had neutral balanced flex plates.
The later 340 (cast crank), the 360 and the magnum are external balanced engines and require a balanced flex plate.
You can get 'em... Just don't forget 'em.

Few on here have/are putting Magnums into A bodies. maybe they can give comments.

See you still have the remote oil filter mount. Good!

Headders:
If you intend on doing it properly use something like Pacemakers from Oz.
Otherwise you can make a cheap set of block huggers work, but the pipes are mongrels to route. - I see you have power steering box, limits the space on the drivers side as the floor pan is based on the US A body. Engine and box is mounted a few inches to the right of centre.
Or you could as you say fabricate some.

Suspension/steering:
Roger at Monkfish Performance here in the UK and as 'Roger' on this web site sells Pedders, regularly imports from Oz.
Have a look in the Traders section.


Workshop Manual:
Get yourself one, try ebay.
There are reprint manuals and the original ones available.
I have some VH sections out of the manual on pdf. I'll email to you.

Cheers
Steve

Some serious knowledge and help out there...thanks. Touched base with Roger at Pedders.

I've stuck a few more pics up

David

Wish I had one of these to bring back to life!

My mistake, I dont think this is SOA after all. I wrongly assumed this was RAN 5 L as that is a black one that vanished 5 years ago, which is SOA.

Dave your car is in the right range of chassis numbers to be a UK export car, but I am missing the details from my records from OZ. They were virtually all Vh 770 with 318 auto.
Yours is definitley a 72 build , as chassis 663 was built 22/2/1972 and 691 built on 24/2/1972 so it seems the UK cars were built in short batches together.

this site is great for deocding your build plate which is hopefully on the bulkhead, drivers side.
http://www.valiantrestorationservices.com/codes.html

It has all the codes and options, including "delete disc brakes - Fiji only."

What kind of option is that, one of one?, and where is it now??

Interesting chassis no. facts there Matt - might need to try and persuade DVLA that it should be free tax in due course. Wonder if it's possible to get official confirmation of build dates?
I was told it was an official export car so that seems to tally. Cursory examination in dark barn failed to yield the build plate, but the number stamped on the driver's side inner wing goes 6H29 (which makes sense)674SOA579...

Anyone got a Fijian Charger ?

MattH wrote:My mistake, I dont think this is SOA after all. I wrongly assumed this was RAN 5 L as that is a black one that vanished 5 years ago, which is SOA.

Dave your car is in the right range of chassis numbers to be a UK export car, but I am missing the details from my records from OZ. They were virtually all Vh 770 with 318 auto.
Yours is definitley a 72 build , as chassis 663 was built 22/2/1972 and 691 built on 24/2/1972 so it seems the UK cars were built in short batches together.

i think that reg no is on a lads car in crewe area it was a m5 bmw his name is RANDAL RAN5L

daward wrote: need to try and persuade DVLA that it should be free tax in due course. Wonder if it's possible to get official confirmation of build dates?

Well Matts the man to get that sorted for you..

I think you do have the akward ignition switch

NICE interior mate

thet steering wheel is worth 800 Bux to the right australian


looks like you are missing your D/Lights switch

a spare could be summond up from the shed


Dave

daward wrote:Interesting chassis no. facts there Matt - might need to try and persuade DVLA that it should be free tax in due course. Wonder if it's possible to get official confirmation of build dates?
I was told it was an official export car so that seems to tally. Cursory examination in dark barn failed to yield the build plate, but the number stamped on the driver's side inner wing goes 6H29 (which makes sense)674SOA579...

Anyone got a Fijian Charger ?

Dave, I am the DVLA authorised club official. I write them a letter detailing your car and it's date of build from VIN etc, and DVLA will modify your V5 to be Historic , saving you £215 per year in road tax.
They are usually pretty good, and the chassis number tells you the bulk of what they need to know. I just explain it to them in laymans terms.
A small charge for the letter goes into club funds.

That sounds handy Matt - I will make arrangements with you in due course...

Thanks all for your comments so far

I love the way that you join, then get bamboozled with info from the Aussie guys, you couldn't have got a better club for advice.

If you're thinking of a engine swap you will struggle to get a 340 engine over here for sensible money.

I was 318 and went to a 360 with a mild engine build. Would suggest a 727 if you go the 360 route but you must get the right torque convertor as the 360 engines had a different type. Took me two years to track the right converter down !! The 360 engine mount may need some spacers on it for it to bolt in, well it does on my Dart.

My 360 has a comp cam 209h cam and lifters, edelbrock intake and either 600, 625 or 650 carb, not sure yet.

Good luck with the project

Vader off to kill some Ewoks

Hi Dart Vader is right but I wished that he had asked me I think I still have a couple of 360 727 converters that cam of Ausie engines. I know there is one on the engine that I bought from Jon Connelly. I had a 904 behind my 340 T/A engine and for street and occasional strip use it held up OK. The best bet is to by the B&M flex plate for the 360 and then you can put on any converter as it is balanced and not the converter. The other thing to remember is that there is a small block 727 and a big block they have different bell housing bolt pattens.
Hope this may help

Now you tell me !!!!

You think that this heat over Spain is the sun !! Its me and my death rays !!


Yes, should have said bout the two types of 727's.

Nothing wrong with a 904 though.

If you go 727 you will probably have to swap the prop out for shorter one But I stand to be corrected by the Oz boys

Sorry Dart Vader didn't know at the time that you were after one.
You are right about the 727 the box is about 4" longer and the output shaft in the gearbox is bigger so it would be easier to change the prop.