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Posted: Wed Jan 22, 14 10:35 pm
by Pete
We ditched it on the race car but i would be inclined to keep it on a roadcar.

You could drain the fluid from the front system and empty the Disc M/C reservoir and then start from square one and do the back first and see if that blows your skirt up...

Posted: Wed Jan 22, 14 10:41 pm
by terryr
are you getting line pressure down to the dist block for the rear circuit,sometimes you need to bleed the master cylinder first

Posted: Wed Jan 22, 14 11:01 pm
by Pete
Aye, its called "Bench Bleeding". Another thig to check.....

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 14 6:05 am
by autofetish
in rush quick post

had same on my charger

you press it thinks that rear has leak and shuts valve


I


First undo all nipps

fill up with fluid leave over night

maybe just rear open

let gravity do the hard work.


or


pump the brake fluid up the nipple it will come out master

you can buy a reverse bleed kit or use bottle and old tyre for air

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 14 8:48 pm
by challenger
terryr wrote:are you getting line pressure down to the dist block for the rear circuit,sometimes you need to bleed the master cylinder first
had similar prob with mine, gave it a bench bleed and then bled the system in no time, never really had much pressure to the rear even with adjustable valve, but on the brake rollers it hits 300 plus

Posted: Tue Jan 28, 14 11:52 am
by MattH
Finally bit the bullet and took the brake light switch thing off completely.
After realising what little it does, I dont need to have a bulb to tell me there is a brake problem, the seat of my pants will do. originality is not vital, just function.
The master cylinder is a split system so even if one side fails there is still the other half working, and i tend to check for drips and puddles under my cars all the time.

Also Dave 999 pointed out that on his car, someone had cleverly removed the bulb so he was unaware of no rear brakes when the shuttle moved and shut them off.

I have now reflared pipes to fit 3/8 UK style male fittings and just got a straight connection from the master to the rears, and a three way brass T piece from a Triumph Herald for the fronts.
They bled in about 30 seconds on my own.
One week of cursing, but I am learning all the time, and finding the stuff that will come in useful one day has!

Posted: Wed Aug 06, 14 9:54 pm
by autofetish
Matt how did this work out for you now the car is driving ?

I'm having same poportion valve bleed fun :roll:

Posted: Wed Aug 06, 14 10:47 pm
by MattH
Perfectly. No issues at all, the proportioning for the front and rear is done by the master cylinder not the horrid block thingy. i just have a pipe to the rears and a T piece to split the feed to the fronts, simples.
Brakes work really well, especially with new discs and drums now, no more pedal rise and fall or judder.
I have had to use them in anger when I forgot to pin the bonnet down :oops:
and they were fine, no rear lock up before the fronts or scary imbalance.