Exhaust hitting everything

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Mon Mar 10, 14 9:15 pm

I reckon the rhino finish on your valve covers and sump looks the biz now it is cured,

most all headers for b-e bodies are crap shame you wrapped em will, sorry but i think you should remove them take the wrap off, refit them get them to fit and then rewrrap em then fit them again, your build is to good to just go and wreck the wrap hammering and levering on them,,,,,,,

db · Post by db » Mon Mar 10, 14 9:28 pm

That's a real pi55er Will after all that work!
I got no steering box, no inner wings, mini-starter and SB headers and they STILL found something in the way! I had to remanufacture my trans crossmember as the collectors pointed straight into them.
There's always summat

Duncs advice sounds good to me

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Tue Mar 11, 14 6:30 am

TTIs aint bulletproof fit - so it happens to us all. Mine needed a change to idler arm and a big dent clobbered into them. On the drivers side I have just noticed they are marking the new fat torsion bars - which suggests they contact under load - another thing to look at.

Tough to see from the pics but I ended up splitting the engine mount and making a shim ( like 5mm or somethng) to lift one side of the engine. This helped a lot with the idler clash.

My advice would be work out if you have any 'wiggle room' and go from there. If you have the wiggle to lift everything a few mm it could make all the difference. Mounts and things can be fettled.

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Tue Mar 11, 14 7:06 am

Its very common to have to put a few small dents in them to make them fit.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Mar 11, 14 7:33 am

As Morgan says, check the engine is sitting level in the car side to side, try raising it a bit, it makes a big difference to header fit. Measure from the centre of the crank bolt to the chassis rail on each side, you should have 2 1/2" offset to the passenger side, if not correct it. Had to go through this on Jems Belvedere, spent a fair bit of time jiggling the motor around to get it sitting where it should be, once it was the headers didn't hit anything, close but not touching.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Mar 11, 14 7:47 am

Very good points, Morgan and Blue.

On the TTI site there is also a dimension for Crankshaft centreline from the "K" frame - you could get the correct off-set to the right but the whole engine could be sitting low.

However, it looks like a big clash with the input shaft of the steering box, I think that could still be your biggest problem....

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Mar 11, 14 8:52 am

Header wrap might seem a good idea. Been there and done that. But they rotted my hedman headers in just a few thousand miles. The headers went as thin as tin foil in some places.

My ceramic coated 2" primary - 3.5" collector Dougs Headers only needed a dimple to clear the end of the pitman arm. Best fitting headers I ever fitted. But then again I only had three pairs of Hedman headers in the past and they were a bloody nightmare not just in fit but also to stop from blowing gaskets.

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Tue Mar 11, 14 12:42 pm

Will, looking at your engine mounts, it looks like they are modified...or are they standard?

My guess is your engine is mounted too low. I used hooker Super Competition Headers on my B Body with no issues whatsoever.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Mar 11, 14 12:55 pm

I dunno Ivor. I have never seen headers that didn't need some work to fit around a power steering box. One of the reasons I switched to manual. It was a breeze then.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Mar 11, 14 1:12 pm

Wow thanks all for input and ideas.

Now then the engine mounts came with the car but it was then a 400 B block i Imagen there the same mount ????

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... mikglu.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 244CFF87-546F-4A31-B797-C9435213B231_zpsjbmikglu.jpg"></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... nr0t69.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 8BC4A24F-C52A-4590-810F-A0B065CC1C8D_zpsyfnr0t69.jpg"></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i205/ ... 674c08.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo e034c024-d4e3-41c7-9977-46ec26bf96a0_zps88674c08.jpg"></a>

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Mar 11, 14 1:54 pm

They look OK to me.

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Tue Mar 11, 14 3:06 pm

Yep, they look stock to me as well...so that's my theory out the window then...

drewcrane · Post by **drewcrane** » Tue Mar 11, 14 4:20 pm

Are these TTI,S ?

they are specific to engine size, RB , B AND Small block are different ,

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Tue Mar 11, 14 5:33 pm

Ivor wrote:Yep, they look stock to me as well...so that's my theory out the window then...

ivor

yours was a 383 in a b bit more room,

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Tue Mar 11, 14 5:47 pm

Yep, you are right there Duncan, I forgot about that!