Mopar Muscle Association UK

Nice job, the flaming river kit looks top quality

great great stuff

Is there just one grub screw between your steering working and not working at all? Or am I 'reading' those photos wrong?

GJUK wrote:Is there just one grub screw between your steering working and not working at all? Or am I 'reading' those photos wrong?

There is one each side I think. Both with lock nuts. The adaptor shaft is flattened each side so cannot turn even if the grub screws worked loose. You would feel bad play in the steering well before they came out completely. The other end is on a splined shaft anyway and the length should be cut so it can't physically slide off as long as that roll pin is in place.

The only weak spot is the roll pin. Not normally an issue but I like Rebels belt and braces inclusion of a split pin too.

You can re use the original solid pin, which is what I did last time I did this conversion. You would have to take the column out of the car to remove and refit though, as Rebel says, it's in there very tight indeed.

Amazing the space that can be relieved by going Manual.......

Great guide........just wondering if this would be better moved to the tech section for steering and made a sticky????

If my box goes, i'll probably end up doing the same, so would be great for future ref!!!!

Blue wrote:You can re use the original solid pin, which is what I did last time I did this conversion. You would have to take the column out of the car to remove and refit though, as Rebel says, it's in there very tight indeed.

Couldn't shift mine at all. Tried heat, hammer and vice. All I was doing was making it into a rivet. The split pin supplied is quite beefy though I think from memory?

GJUK wrote:Is there just one grub screw between your steering working and not working at all? Or am I 'reading' those photos wrong?

I numbered the picture to make it clearer for you ...

Thanks for all the comments guy's, now I've read through it again including all the comments, there's one or two details that I forgot to add.

As Dave said and as Mopar Mark showed in his pic, there are two grub screws on the upper half of the UJ that fits over the upper part of the coupler, even though the design of the coupler prevents any play in the connections, I drilled a pilot hole for both of them so they don't just sit on the shaft surface, but are screwed in to the shaft itself. The grub screws are tightened fully and the lock nuts are torqued up as well. All of them use thread lock to help hold in place once torqued up.

The coupler is a great piece of kit and so much more substantial than the factory one that came off.

Great post – thanks for sharing.
Pretty much exactly what I need to do !

Very good information Rebel thank you for sharing.