Rusty floor pans

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Sep 20, 05 10:10 am

Yep thats the one I use

the rest of the dinitrol range is here http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=63

check out the cavity and underbody wax

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Sep 20, 05 12:01 pm

The cavity wax is after the paint i reckon, it seals all the little horrible areas where rust starts, it's also good as a underbody sealer as it creeps

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Tue Sep 20, 05 12:38 pm

I did the entire inside and underfloor using a heavy duty angle grinder with an even more heavy duty dished, twisted wire brush and that soon sorted out the weak spots (which thankfully, there were very few).

It ripped everything off and left bright bare metal, which I sprayed with two pack epoxy etch primer as fast as I possibly could.

You might find my website useful to take you through this sort of thing...though I need to do a bit of an update in all the excitement I'm a month behind

Holly · Post by **Holly** » Wed Sep 21, 05 4:12 pm

sho ryu ken wrote:I had a good go at the rust with a hand wire brush today

There's a big difference compared to angle grinder power

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Sep 21, 05 4:37 pm

I would derust the floor (which ever way), treat rust ares with Dinitrol, hand brush complete floor pans in red oxide metal primer (Bonda prime good) and then final paint over the top. Cant really see the need for spraying if its not a full resto and the carpet will be over the top of it.
Dont use cavity wax or tar based paint on inside of the vehicle, use the cavity wax for inside sills, pillars and doors etc and underseal for underneath the vehicle. The smoother the paint on the inside, the better for dealing with any damp that might occur

Jeff · Post by **Jeff** » Wed Sep 21, 05 5:32 pm

Blimey! looks like you had a result there!

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Sep 21, 05 6:07 pm

With the dintrol wax stuff there's one that dries quite hard but still creeps I used that on any seams whether they were inside or not.

On my 71 RR after putting the chassis connectors in and painting the floor I tipped a full bottle on the whole floor and brushed it out, waited till it had gone a little solid then put the carpet back, paying particular attention to any seams.

Me personally I think with seams it don't matter how much paint you get on there it will crack eventually with body flex so at least on the seams get some dinitrol wax on em after the paint has dried

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Sep 22, 05 12:53 am

Theres 2 nuts under the floor that hold the pedal on( your need to get under the car to see them). Also need to disconnect the cable from the pedal, your see how to do this once youve got the nuts off

Alex · Post by **Alex** » Thu Sep 22, 05 7:29 am

Why do you have to disconnect the cable? once the pedal is out the rod is way far enough out of the way to pull a carpet.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Sep 22, 05 9:19 am

You right, dont bother disconnecting the cable. I'm just so use to taking everthing off the car.