distributor rotor arm at TDC on cylinder 1

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Feb 17, 15 11:17 am

I always take the rocker cover off and watch for the intake valve closing. Then kick it a bit at a time to get the timing mark near and fine adjust with the socket.

If I am not confident about the timing mark accuracy I use a piston stop in the spark plug to check that. But no way should you use the starter motor to turn the engine doing that!!

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Tue Feb 17, 15 11:24 am

My switch has crocodile clips that just clip onto the relay posts so I can stand at the front of the car and watch everything spinning round in front of me....like a cheap poledancer in a Jean Claude Van Damme film

I dont like all those big scary sparks from my screwdriver

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Feb 17, 15 11:47 am

Yeah you are right of course. I'm just too tight to buy anything I can do without.

Bigboi · Post by **Bigboi** » Sat Feb 28, 15 7:17 am

Ok, I've got the no1 piston at tdc, the corresponding spark plug wire is going to cylinder 1.

I now have a new problem.

I can't get a spark!
I've changed the coil, icu (ignition control unit) , by passed the ballast resistor briefly but still no spark.

Any ideas.?
Are the hall effect components reliable?

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Sat Feb 28, 15 4:14 pm

Have you checked the reluctor gap ? should be between .006" and .008"

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Sat Feb 28, 15 5:27 pm

Hi I assume this is a small block, and was the engine ever running if it was what exactly have you done since it last ran?

Also as Mick has said check the reluctor gap (gap between the toothed wheel inside the dizzy and the pick that's in place of the points) just incase you are unsure, best using a brass feeler gauge as its not magnetic. although usually its a bad connection at the connector or broken wire.

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Sat Feb 28, 15 5:38 pm

If the gap is too big it wont spark

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sat Feb 28, 15 6:18 pm

The reluctor is normally very reliable but it could have failed.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sat Feb 28, 15 6:28 pm

It's a longshot, but have you reconnected the dizzy wire connector. Easy to forget when changing out dizzy.
Also, are you sure it has no spark? These cars can take a while for fuel to come up when left unused and feel like it has no spark. That's caught me out before.
I have one of those see through plug connectors that definable shows whether a spark is showing.

Bigboi · Post by **Bigboi** » Sat Feb 28, 15 6:32 pm

That was it!

The gap between the reluctor was too big.
Trouble is now I have spark, it's just back firing through the carb.

My next option is a new carb I have to fit.

Or a couple of cans of easy start.
The carb is fueling as I can see it squirting in but it almost fires but just can't 'catch'

I'm gonna check the spark wires are correct and then ensure that each plug is getting a spark.

Aby ideas or something I'm missing

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Sat Feb 28, 15 6:47 pm

Like I asked was the engine running before and what have you done to it since it last ran?

Bigboi · Post by **Bigboi** » Sat Feb 28, 15 7:08 pm

It ran years ago and it been laid up since.

I'm gonna try easy start tomorrow.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Sat Feb 28, 15 7:19 pm

Running or just backfiring. Could be 180 out.

Bigboi · Post by **Bigboi** » Sat Feb 28, 15 7:26 pm

That's the thing, I turned the engine over to tdc with the plug out, checked it was pushing/compression stroke and also confirmed with the bottom pulley and a long 1/4 drive extension that it was tdc.

If there is spark and even fuel just pored into the inlet it should fire up.

I have been tweeking the timing slightly, anybody know what it should be? It's a small block 5.2l
I'm waiting for my manual to turn up from the states, I ordered it 11 days a go though so I'm guessing it's been lost..

John · Post by **John** » Sat Feb 28, 15 7:44 pm

Back fireing is also a sign of being to lean on the carb