Mopar Muscle Association UK

ChrisN34 wrote:you need to let it warm up for a bit on cold start, pump a bit of gas etc and rev it a little to get it warmer. Now this has only happened twice now but ive let it warm up, sat on the drive for 5 minutes maybe, driven off and at the end of the road it has stalled

Could be ignition timing

As said the car, unlike a modern car with many sensors, doesn’t have a clue what the current conditions are, you have to compensate, you will find that your starting / warm up procedure will have to alter slightly from winter to summer

ChrisN34 wrote:The car also runs quite hot too, and if i go on a prolonged drive (more than 30 minutes or so) the rad bubbles over

Could also be ignition timing

timing …
my 383 likes 20deg initial 34deg max all in at 2500rpm

Dave’s laws ...

ignition ...
http://challenger.mpoli.fi/board/viewto ... f=13&t=828

carb ...
http://challenger.mpoli.fi/board/viewto ... =11&t=5308

loads on here about timing ...

http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45873

http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35148

http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35679

my recent timing exploits ...

http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=46913

and some more of the same ...

http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=46806

Bozwell wrote:this time of year carbs can freeze easily. that's why most old cars with carbs had an air filter with a hot air intake off the exhaust manifold.

Carb icing ! Had this with my 1970 VW camper. Did my head in.
Solved it with a little "electric blanket" that wrapped around the carb stem - but that was a single barrel solex ......
...... " we're gonna need a bigger blanket ..."

Can the cold weather cause carb backfiring/spitting in a normally ok running car?

Derek wrote:I don't want to seem to be gloating but I have none of these problems, If I haven't used the Charger for a while I just switch on the electric pump wait a few seconds pump the gas pedal a couple of times turn the key and hey presto it starts and runs, open the garage door switch off the electric pump and off I go.

Hey Del,
What model pump have you got? i presume you've got it installed in the main line, and that when you turn it off, it allows the mech pump to pull the fuel through it?
We've got one like this on the Plymouth, a Delco cannister type thing.
Cheers, Stu.

Stu Twin wrote:

Derek wrote:I don't want to seem to be gloating but I have none of these problems, If I haven't used the Charger for a while I just switch on the electric pump wait a few seconds pump the gas pedal a couple of times turn the key and hey presto it starts and runs, open the garage door switch off the electric pump and off I go.

Hey Del,
What model pump have you got? i presume you've got it installed in the main line, and that when you turn it off, it allows the mech pump to pull the fuel through it?
We've got one like this on the Plymouth, a Delco cannister type thing.
Cheers, Stu.

Stu.
It's just one of Summits own make, looks just like a Holley, I mounted it just by the tank, also put in a fuel vapor separator, looks like a filter with a return, no more fuel evaporation and cutting out when stuck in heavy. traffic.

Derek wrote:

Stu Twin wrote:

Derek wrote:I don't want to seem to be gloating but I have none of these problems, If I haven't used the Charger for a while I just switch on the electric pump wait a few seconds pump the gas pedal a couple of times turn the key and hey presto it starts and runs, open the garage door switch off the electric pump and off I go.

Hey Del,
What model pump have you got? i presume you've got it installed in the main line, and that when you turn it off, it allows the mech pump to pull the fuel through it?
We've got one like this on the Plymouth, a Delco cannister type thing.
Cheers, Stu.

Stu.
It's just one of Summits own make, looks just like a Holley, I mounted it just by the tank, also put in a fuel vapor separator, looks like a filter with a return, no more fuel evaporation and cutting out when stuck in heavy. traffic.

Yes I to went with an electric fuel pump eliminating the mechanical pump I use a unit from Carter,I am replacing after 15 years or so,with the current fuel we have, it is a must, vapor lock is a huge problem here,but I am re wiring,and will add an oil pressure switch, that will only allow the pump to operate when the engine is running, sensing oil pressure it is a unit that I will also add a relay,as well as a fusible link.

all this is being done because currently I have it setup off the ignition, so it is on all the time with just the key in run position, this way is not safe ,if the car or I become disabled, the fuel will continue to run even if the engine is turned off,that is not safe .SO CHANGES WILL BE MADE THIS WEEKEND

I had no end of issues starting my Polara when I first had it.

Three things sorted it

TIMING as described (advanced to 12 deg initial)

CARB disconnected auto choke (feather the throttle for 10 - 15 secs when cold then she idles under her own steam)

HEI ignition (nice beefy spark all the time)

You will get there. Its worth having a good read of the stuff Si has posted. We all end up there at some point!

cheers for all the advice guys, ordered a new thermostat and a mechanic friend of mine said he would take a look at it all when he does the rust removal and painting. Going to look at getting a new Rad, another friend with a duster, bought a 3core rad last year from the states and said its been great, and at some point i will look at getting a nice new carb, i think (not really looked) that the carb currently on there is the stock one.

Timing, timing, timing, and don't forget to check the timing.