so the bearings are buggered. that's kinda expected i can't help felling if they wern't the motor would still be in a car
the worry is if the main bearing caps are loose in the register you have a problem. you can't just swap in any more without an align bore, or lottery winners luck. **
so with the crank out and the bearings pulled out fit each one back in place on the block and check it takes some effort to seat them. if you have to tap them into place GOOD. if they just fall in an out NOT good
put em all in and torque to spec and measure the bore. 5 or 6 times each as many decimal places as you can and average
but that looks like its been treated badly. the main bearing shells are marked and pitted n scored all over
that pinky orange rod.... if it is paint god knows why..... crazy people been in there.
if its copper plate someone has tried to do some kind of reclaim action on the rod to bring some dimension closer to what it should be...
or its a novel way to add weight but how much does a few microns of copper weigh??
it doesn't mean the rod is knackered but it might show as being worse than the rest when checked
specific size for the bore measured top to bottom. it will be slightly wider at the sides and it must provide a specific amount of crush clamping to the bearing shells.
3 routes here
1) telescopic bore gauge tool and a micrometer. measure, lots of times and take average (acceptable)
2) bore gauge set to mid point of size tolerance and measure how it varies (most accurate) +x thou or - x thou from standard size
3) wait until later once crank re ground and new bearings purchased and use 3 strips of plastiguage across 180* of the crank journal, put on cap and see how it squishes (ok but not ideal)
if out of tolerance the rods need doing on a rod resizing machine. they will basically machine off a couple of thou from the faces of cap and rod until the top to bottom distance in the rod bore is on the middle of the size tolerance in the book when torqued to spec for the bolts used.
crank will be hard to say i'd suggest a regrind is most likely if you can feel any of those marks with a fingernail definite, if its all just staining and the journals are round its a polish but it looks like a regrind to me
you will need your micrometer or at a digital verniers to measure the crank, each journal in 3 places round the journal to look for out of round
rod journals get hammered top and bottom.
you can polish a crank at home, but nobody does anymore. involves a long leather lace and a range of wet-n-dry cut into strips soaked in diesel.
wrap a journal with a strip and overlap the end. wrap the wrapped journal in a number of turns of lace. pull hard and down, the way that doesn't unwrap your abrasive , to drive it round, return to do it again with a loose pull back. 1500 to 2000+ wt n dry
works fine if you ding a journal on assembly as well, to remove high spots from the edge of the scratch or minor dent
obviously only useful if the crank is round and its better done with the crank bolted to flywheel and standing up so you can move round it each pull to avoid making it not round..
check main caps
clean crank and rods
measure best you can to get an idea of what the challenge will involve
i think your motor was rebuilt in the 70s 80s due to copper plated bits..... and has lead a long high mileage life since, but its hard to tell in photos. the fact the the bearings look so horrible perhaps indicates overheating and lack of oil.... almost like a near seize or a lot of crap went through.
if it was a seize i'd expect bearing material smeared on the crank
others may have a different view they will have seen more bearings in various states
what are the rod bearings like i'd expect to see copper based on what can be seen on the mains
either way in my opinion its been run with filthy oil or a crap filter for a long time
or the bearings have sat in a nasty acidic or caustic mix of old oil water and fuel
Dave
** chrylser in Oz used to do a block reclaim kit it was a set of main caps where the bore was offset by 0.0005 thou one way or the other you would then match with new bearings doing combinations of caps up to torque and turning the crank. you went with the set that allowed the crank to turn at less than xxx Nms of torque with a specific grade of oil as lube. allowed outback service agents to do more extensive repairs without needing an expensive boring bar set up for just a specific motor. once the side to side stuff was sorted you dealt with the face of the cap on your conrod machine to achieve clearance top to bottom. obviously a bent crank would be an issue.
dave
There is a huge thread on why these Rods where Copper Coated on FABO.com
so its on with the half built engine. I now have the pistons out and the crank looks great 
