Mopar Muscle Association UK

No return valves or Accumulator ??

Here's a couple of pics While I was under there I decided to fit the other line and it primed up a treat

Thanks Jim! Ok, I think this will work, plenty clear of the headers and most of the line below the oil level in the pan, we'll see.

Next problem, passenger side header is hard up against the bellhousing, a bit of work with the Welsh tool (Dai Grinder ) will clearance the block, probably have to do the same of the mating edge of the gearbox too.

Damper on. It's an ATI super damper, I was a bit concerned about how tight it was going to fit, Trev measured it and said it was right on spec. With a proper installer it pulled on nicely, tight but not crazy tight. My puller didn't strain too much getting it back off again, so I'm happy with that. The centre hub is obviously thicker than a stock damper because the retaining bolt only has about 3 threads of engagement. So I'm off for a trawl round the net to see if I can find a longer one, hopefully ARP will list something.

Blue, why do your engines always look like they could go in the Tate?

Engineering porn, as always!

Broke my Puller getting mine off after it had been on 2 years....same thing seemed scarey tight

Blue any reason why you went with that pan? and not one of the run of the mill pans, if you can call them that

Blue i think i have a longer bolt, i think it came off a small block , i will look tomorow.

Rogue Trooper wrote:Blue any reason why you went with that pan? and not one of the run of the mill pans, if you can call them that

Yep, there were a few reasons,
Wanted more oil capacity.
Wanted good ground clearance.
Wanted the oil level well below the crank.
Didn't want to use the stock type windage tray.
Wanted to be able to rev it above 7 grand if I needed too.
Wanted to be able to get the pan off in the car reasonably easily.

You can't achieve all of that with the stock type pan, it has to be the shape it is to clear the K frame and the steering draglink. As I no longer have either, I can use a full length pan. I could have got away with a stock type set up for the engine as it is now, but I'm thinking ahead. And the parts to do it turned up for cheap money so I thought do it now...

So, sorted out a bolt for the damper, it turns out the 6 cylinder, small block, cast crank big block and hemi all use a bolt about an inch longer. Didn't realise that. Tried the bottom pulley on expecting it to be out of line, and it was. I'm sure me old mate Trev can spin me a new one up...

I know this might be silly but why not put a spacer on the water pump and do it that way ? also the alternator can be moved

Fan to rad clearance is a bit tight unfortunatly.....

Had the same problem Blue...there are millions of different bottom pulleys, diameter and depth...had a good look through Duncans stuff years ago and found the right one.

Looking great! Love the fact you are already thinking ahead and futreproofing the bottom end and oiling:thumbright: Does a stroker need to rev past 7large??

Cheers mate! With the right cam and enough head this thing could be a screamer....

Hughes valley tray seems to fit fine out of the box which makes a change...

So I'm waiting for parts now, not much else I can do for another week or so.