Mopar Muscle Association UK

RobTwin wrote: Sun Jan 24, 21 12:41 am

TIB3300 wrote: Sat Jan 23, 21 6:26 pm Ran it today after a sticky / noisy tappet yesterday, left it on valve spring load all night seems to have squeezed any air out of it.

Am happy with the bottom end so am going to put it in the car , but going to get new cam and followers
https://youtu.be/PBDczKBF3LE.

Success! Good to see a running engine Are you also going for a bit more carburation?

Yes it does feel like a mile stone having a running engine.

"carburation"
Yes, but just want evrything inplace first . I can then start playing and making things shiny

RobTwin wrote: Sun Jan 24, 21 12:41 am

TIB3300 wrote: Sat Jan 23, 21 6:26 pm Ran it today after a sticky / noisy tappet yesterday, left it on valve spring load all night seems to have squeezed any air out of it.

Am happy with the bottom end so am going to put it in the car , but going to get new cam and followers

https://youtu.be/PBDczKBF3LE.

Success! Good to see a running engine Are you also going for a bit more carburation?

Ohh just to say, it's going on sequential injection LPG gas

nice

easy move to turbo after that

boost reference your gas regulator... its basically a hole and a pipe fitting in the right place

yer LPG has a RON of over 100

good catch on the sticky lifter being linked to a push rod that couldn't turn



Dave

Dave999 wrote: Mon Jan 25, 21 11:08 am nice
easy move to turbo after that
boost reference your gas regulator... its basically a hole and a pipe fitting in the right place
yer LPG has a RON of over 100
good catch on the sticky lifter being linked to a push rod that couldn't turn
Dave

No turbo, knocks out too much sound

Sticky lifter"
Still damaged the cam Just looking at a new ones, not sure what to go for yet?
VooDoo
Hughes , whiplash
Melling MTD Class one

well i run this in my hemi 6

3.45:1 rear end

1st 2.46:1
2nd 1.78:1
3rd 1.27:1
4th 1:1



a similar cam from the same manufacturer for 318 exists but is 2 further up the list of mild- wild when applied to a 318 v8 with a plenum based inlet

company has just shut down so i can't find the specs.

i while back i posted up some stuff on dynamic compression ratio and a link to some software... really handy

if you can't find it i'll dig it out again

Dave

Thanks Mr I bought the melling one this morning


chevy version


https://youtu.be/UbQZQDfRmo4


https://youtu.be/o0WfvEDtKbU

Some toys arrived today

Put royal-mail to shame Ordered them from the states Saturday, 3 days to arrive .and a first for me, never bought a camshaft in my life

are you pulling the heads off or doing the valve springs in situ?
neil.

mygasser wrote: Tue Feb 02, 21 8:54 pm are you pulling the heads off or doing the valve springs in situ?
neil.

Going to make a tool out of a spare rocker arm bar and a lever , , dont fancy the rope trick.

So compressed air I think, this gave me the idea

Best done with compressed air, the position of the spark plug doesn't help with rope, though it works fine on a big block. A gutted spark plug makes a good adaptor and can double up as a piston stop if you design it to suit.

Blue wrote: Wed Feb 03, 21 6:22 pm Best done with compressed air, the position of the spark plug doesn't help with rope, though it works fine on a big block. A gutted spark plug makes a good adaptor and can double up as a piston stop if you design it to suit.

Rope trick worked perfectly for me on a small block. I always worried that using compressed air could create an issue if the keeper was sticky and the spring compressor opened the valve a little, then all the air would escape. If the piston was at BDC (which seems likely with the compressed air in the cylinder, the valve might drop.
Having said that everyone uses compressed air so I concluded my fears must be unfounded - either the pressure is always enough to overcome any stickiness and/or the pressure isn't enough to send the piston to BDC.
For that reason I'd probably use air next time, and the gutted plug always seemed like an easy way to do that. (I don't think the adaptors are that expensive if you wanted to buy one?)

i always use rope as it's a mechanical stop for the valves. i wouldn't worry about the valve dropping into the bore when using compressed air though, you'd just put each cylinder to tdc in turn so the valve could only drop slightly 'til it touched the piston.
neil.

both processes only work if you remove the retainer on a valve that has rope or air under it..... as i found out

new head gasket necessary....

tried a magnet on a rod to pull it back up...... no luck

i'll timed phone call for work, and i lost concentration and my place.

Dave

Dave999 wrote: Fri Feb 05, 21 9:24 am both processes only work if you remove the retainer on a valve that has rope or air under it.....
Dave

and give all of the retainers a tap on one edge before starting to release/unstick the collets from them too.
neil.