Mopar Muscle Association UK

Blimey has it really been this long? Anyway's, Finally got around to trying some C12 today to see if that cured the detonation that I was getting on Super unleaded. It did, it ran really strong until the oil light came on Had to get the AA out to tow me back home Found the oil pump drive had sheared off at the pump, the oil pump rotor was lightly welded to the base plate. Need to have a good look at it all tomorrow to try and work out the cause. How many days to the Nats?.....

hope you saw the light in time.
finger crossed the shells arn't your name !
Hope you can get it sorted for this weekend

Blimey, you don't seem to be having much luck.

I have a spare Phosphor bronze one somewhere if you need it, though knowing you it will be a tear down job for peace of mind...

Roydon has only just emptied the sump after his Gary's picnic debacle with the faulty nitrous Fuel solenoid.

When he drained the sump he found he had oil in his C12

However, being Roydon, I am sure he will change the oil, not bother to pre-oil it (even though he has my tool to do so at his house) and then leather it at the Nats.....

Pete wrote: However, being Roydon, I am sure he will change the oil, not bother to pre-oil it (even though he has my tool to do so at his house) and then leather it at the Nats.....

Blue wrote: Found the oil pump drive had sheared off at the pump, the oil pump rotor was lightly welded to the base plate. Need to have a good look at it all tomorrow to try and work out the cause.

I cant believe the luck your having with that motor John, i do hope that the filter did its job and that is the only damage it has sustained. You are more than welcome to any bits from my motor if they are of any use to you.

what type of pump is it

kinda
4 leaf clover thing??

aussie ones do this

1) too much play in shaft through pump housing allows clover leaf to bind with ring but only under load, you will have smeared or scored 1 or more lobes
2) loading the shaft and clover leaf upwards into the cover due to incorrect placement of drive on the other end or the clover leaf on the pump end
3) mismatch of drive cog to cam gear chews both, twists pump and it binds or snaps off its moorings
4) way too much oil pressure due to too little flow often caused by shimming the relife spring to get modern engine 30- 50lb at hot idle
5) running the deep section small block cover with 1/4 inch taller rotor and gear...too much presure not enough flow..
6) cam walk and or cam flex due to heavy springs and associated harmonics knack both oil pump and dizzy in double quick time (faster if using gear drive due to shock loading) (bolt collar round cam in 1 place and take off a thou or so in another to alter harminonic or use teflon block as cam deflection damper in the middle of the longest unsupported run

probably not applicable to big block pumps and engine

but ya never know

i can be a little ray of sunshine sometimes

Dave

Dave999 wrote: i can be a little ray of sunshine sometimes

Dave

Always.

Unlike me.

Some interesting points to think about in that post Dave.

Thanks for the offer Guy, but I think I'm sorted. Ordered up a new pump drive, that should be here Tomorrow. Carefully cleaned up the face of the rotor and the pump face where it had stuck itself together, no other damage to that and it now turns freely. The only reason I can see for this happening is insufficient clearance on the distributor coller. I had it set at 10thou. on a cold engine which I thought should be enough, I'll give it a couple of thou more. Oil change and prime it up tomorrow and see what happens.

Go Blue, gotta see you at some point this year,and your ratty mate