Mopar Muscle Association UK

before you pull the front to bits check the dip switch on the floor.

its easy to kick off the wires to it

Dave

Usually you only put a dipped beam (and sidelight) on the outer lamps. The inners are normally used for full beam only or as yellow fog lamps.

On A Charger the standard light set up is outer two are dip and main and inner two are main only.

morgan wrote:I like your new headlights.
Might have to go down that route myself - I made my latest joblist over the break (There is always something...) and one of the jobs is 'fix main beam'. I think I dislodged something fiddling with the front end. I am now wondering whether I do the same as you - new wires and units and be done with it... The new engine wiring loom is great, maybe I should do the lights too. hmm...

There is an easy way to check to see if its the main switch or if there is a problem at the grill end. the red wire in the block connector behind the battery is the live to the main beam so if you run a live from the battery to this wire an d the lights work you know its the switch and I the don't light up it's the light or the wiring after the block connector.

I Have begun to design my over axle pipes to complete my exhaust system. I finishe dthe design yesterday and cut out a M.D.F template to check tha the new over axle pipe would clear every thing so that I can order all the right bends and pipe. This is what I have come up with so far.


I Tried the template and it fitted fine and cleared everthing so now I can order the Stainless Steel and begin cutting and welding

Having not had time to get to Brixton to pick up my stainless steel to make my over axle pipes I have had to settle with buying stuff off e-bay USA and this is a few of the bits I have brought.
The jake is the only part missing from my trunk so I finally decided to buy one.
Since i brought my Charger one of the hood indicator lenses was a piece of orange plastic so I have now brought a new set from Gotham city muscle.
The rear lights on my car have very bad chrome so over the last year I have been following lots of auctions to see what the go for and a very good set came up before Christmas and I decided to put in a silly bid, I didn't think I would win but I woke the next day to find I had won and when the arrived I was very pleased with how good the chrome and lenses were.

I have a few more bit on there way over and once the arrive I'll post some more.

I brought a 100amp alternator off Will and when I finally got round to fitting it I found that every time I went to the car the battery was flat and after eliminating all other problems I found out it was the built in regulator was faulty. I took it to a couple of alternator repair places but I had not luck as the regulator was not available in this country so I stated to look in the states and after some searching I found a company(Wagner) that had one in stock and was prepared to deal with me in the UK and so I order one and it arrived last week. I have fitted it and I will put it on the car tomorrow and hopefully that should sort it.
Reading on this company's website you can add the regulator to any standard Chrysler Alternator and do away with the Fire wall regulator. They also sell the firewall regulator and hundreds of other regulators. This regulator cost $35 dollar to buy and $8 to post.

Yeah but the neat thing about the firewall regulator is that it regulates the voltage in the harness rather than at the output of the alt. That way you do not get any losses in the voltage actually in the wiring.

i have been having a sort out and have circa 15 mopar jacks etc i need to sell

The way mine is now is that the alternator has one wire to the battery and then the battery powers the harness so the power in the harness is still regulated at the source. All the power wires in my car are much larger diameter so current drop is minimized. Power from alt to battery in also much shorter. I've tried two firewall regulators and both supplied to much voltage to the battery and that in turn caused bulb failures over time. Now I have 13.5volts at idle with stereo and lights on and from 1500rpm and up I get 14.4volts consistently. I still that the firewall regulator mounted on the firewall to keep it looking correct but I just don't use it.

When I took my hood indicators off I found that the lugs that hook on the bonnet had broken off or were about to break off so I had to repair them as I don't want to buy new ones at the moment. This is how they turned out. The bulb holders were also badly rusted and damaged so I brought new bulb holders and as lick would have it they fitted perfectly. I also used LED bulbs so they would last longer.

If you remember the new tail lights I got I have now cleaned them and Derek painted them for me and I am very happy with results. I have also posted some pictures of the ones on my car so you can see why I replaced them.

Anton,
Nice work as usual

Where did you obtain the holders & LED's for the side markers ?

Hi Mark
Thanks For your comment.

The bulbs came from this place

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWNX:IT


The holders came from here.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BA9S-Car-Auto-Bul ... 2a015eafa9


Hope this helps.
Anton

Lovely job. I too rebuilt my tail lights completely (bodys and bezels chromed, new paint, polished lenses etc).

Quick question for you - how did you get the black paint to stick ? Mine has been pretty good but just peels a little at the edges. I think its because I had the whole unit chromed the paint didnt quite key.

Its not obvious unless you are real close (see pic) but just curious - how did you get paint to stick ?

Looking good - keep up the good work !