Rob & Stu's 69 Sport Satellite

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Thu May 10, 12 4:32 pm

Perfection

RobTwin · Post by **RobTwin** » Mon May 14, 12 8:31 am

Thanks! Well, some bits are more perfect than others

Got the steering column in yesterday, as planned, but not sure if it's in right tho

I posted a question HERE......

dunno if anyone knows the ins & outs of b-body steering coloumns?

Anyhoo, it's nice to have one thing less cluttering up the floor

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon May 14, 12 8:37 am

I really like the seat covers

Q. would they fit my seats in my 68 charger ??

Great work as always

RobTwin · Post by **RobTwin** » Mon May 14, 12 9:04 am

Hi Will, dunno off the top of me head

If your (front) seats dont have head rests and arent high-back (like most were by 1970), yes is suppose they could fit, but you might as well look round for the proper ones for your car.
There's enough suppliers out there that make them that will have the correct pattern/fit for your year/model.

Try Legendary Auto Inetriors or Year One as a start, tho there are others...

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon May 14, 12 9:39 am

RobTwin wrote:Hi Will, dunno off the top of me head
If your (front) seats dont have head rests and arent high-back (like most were by 1970), yes is suppose they could fit, but you might as well look round for the proper ones for your car.
There's enough suppliers out there that make them that will have the correct pattern/fit for your year/model.

Try Legendary Auto Inetriors or Year One as a start, tho there are others...

Yes mine are low back without head rest.

Just don't like the look of the original one

RobTwin · Post by **RobTwin** » Thu May 31, 12 1:34 pm

Got an email from Stu this morning, who had a mate round from work last night to help check the electrics before we think about starting the engine:

"Joe came over last night & we went thru the elec accessories.

Lights, horn, wipers, squirters, indicators / hazards, even radio & speakers work (plugged the DAB into the aux input).

Took out the hazard switch & cleaned the contacts as it was temperamental. Fine now.

And bent the prongs out on the bulb holder for the parking brake indicator light (red one on dash) as it wasn’t working. All ok now.

The only thing we were unable to check is the ign module. There is 12v ish at the ballast resistor (one side) but I think you need the engine running to test voltage of the ign circuit.

Did get it to crank momentarily on key so starter works. (only tried for split second)

So ‘just’ need to bleed brakes, put oil in trans, fuel in tank etc…"

Should get that done this weekend. As for getting the engine started, Paul Knight who built it for us all that time ago

is hopefully going to come and lend a hand, and make sure we dont break anything

RobTwin · Post by **RobTwin** » Tue Jun 19, 12 1:31 pm

Hindsight's a wonderful thing...

Wish we had a time machine then we'd go back a few weeks... months... and fill the radiator with water BEFORE fitting all the ancillaries like the master cylinder, steering column, the battery & batter tray...

or even back to last January when we fitted the exhaust manifold studs.

That would be a good time to test for leaks

But without the benefit of a time machine it looks like we'll just have to make do with hindsight and bite the bullet and start disassembling the above mentioned parts so we can see why water started leaking out of one of the manifold studs at cylinder #1

Not what you want at this stage, having got just about everything else ready to turn the key.

Oh well, 5.5 weeks till the Nats, should be enough time even for us

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Jun 19, 12 1:37 pm

Surely just a bit of silicon on the threads? All 4 corners leak on a BB.....but then you knew that

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Jun 19, 12 1:40 pm

Pete wrote:Surely just a bit of silicon on the threads? All 4 corners leak on a BB.....but then you knew that

I didn't.
I knew all 4 corners leak on a SB but on a BB ALL the studs/bolts go into the water jacket on the exhaust side.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Jun 19, 12 1:49 pm

I stand corrected - I should have known that, having just pressure tested a set of heads

RobTwin · Post by **RobTwin** » Tue Jun 19, 12 2:01 pm

They havent leaked before... well not enough to notice or be concerned... so I wasnt aware that they were 'supposed' to leak

Is teflon/PTFE tape still the best thing to use? That's what we used first time around. Maybe the thread on the studs is a bit worn, so doesnt 'fill' the hole properly in the head?

I'd have thought tape was preferrable to silicon type stuff, as that's more likely to get pushed thru the hole by the stud and go into the waterway? Innit?

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Tue Jun 19, 12 6:05 pm

I did mine with high temp silicone. Just a light smear on the threads. Nothing will be on the end of the bolt to go through. Did all mine when i put the manifolds on. Not a single drop.

Same however couldn't be said for the radiator or the a/c / heater valve. They both leaked. Indeed the valve still does, but i bypassed it for now.

RobTwin · Post by **RobTwin** » Wed Jun 20, 12 1:27 am

Thanks Roger. Might try a bit of that. What the hell, may as well use both tape & silicone! Belt & braces, like

Think the rad & heater were ok but will check again when we refill it.

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Wed Jun 20, 12 12:14 pm

CRIKEY JUST START THE MTR, THE CRUD CIRCULATING WILL MOST PROBABLY SEAL IT UP..

Rich · Post by **Rich** » Thu Jun 21, 12 9:52 pm

what a top bit of advice there from a seasoned pro...