Mopar Muscle Association UK

Rich wrote:what a top bit of advice there from a seasoned pro...

like to help where i can rich,,,,,,,,,, everything needs to heat up expand contract etc will sort itself, if not do it after its no biggie,

Thanks Dunc
Yes that was plan A, or at least thats what we'd hoped but quite a lot leaked out overnight so thought even adding a bit of Barrs Leaks / Radweld wouldnt seal it.
Stu's already made a start and we should have it back together soon with a bit of thread sealant on the studs and some radweld should seal her up.

Lesson learnt

K Seal's the baby to use Rob

Stuff Rad Weld / Barrs Leak

Bit more pricey, but worth the extra

Thanks Jules, never heard of that. Next time maybe - already bought the blue hylomar & radweld by the time I saw your reply

All back together & topped up now anyway, and no sign of any drippage



Hopefully the next post will be with some good news on how well it's running/steering/stopping etc etc

Jules wrote:K Seal's the baby to use Rob

Stuff Rad Weld / Barrs Leak

Bit more pricey, but worth the extra

K-Seal is good stuff, about £10 a bottle, I've stood and watched it seal a head gasket, then 10 mins later the guy drove to Newcastle and back with no problems.

RobTwin wrote:Thanks Jules, never heard of that. Next time maybe - already bought the blue hylomar & radweld by the time I saw your reply

All back together & topped up now anyway, and no sign of any drippage



Hopefully the next post will be with some good news on how well it's running/steering/stopping etc etc

Then after that we can get the garage floor back to how tidy it was in my avatar

RobTwin wrote:....... Hopefully the next post will be with some good news on how well it's running/steering/stopping etc etc

Later tonite, if all goes to plan

Well it works!

The engine, that is. Didnt take the car out as it was hissing down and getting late so it might get its first trip out when we take it to the MOT.

Paul Knight came to lend a hand, which was a big help to us 'new engine newbies', as he knew how he'd left the engine when we collected it from him at the start of last year

To get the oil pressure up, Paul took the dizzy and its drive out so he could spin the engine round, which quickly got it up to 60psi.

Even with the new leccy fuel pump working, it took a fair bit of cranking to get the fuel thru to the carb. And thanks to a couple of not-quite-tight-enough joints on the carb feed, we could tell when the fuel had got up to the carb

Once they had been tightened and we'd checked for a spark, the old thing fired right up

After about 5 mins of running the next item that we found to be a bit looser than ideal was the jubilee clip on the bottom hose So that's the k-member christened

And after a bit of timing and carb adjustment it was idling on its own at around 900rpm


Andrew was filming all this on my camera so if I can drag myself into the 20th or even 21st century I'll see if I can get it up on YouTube or summat

Great stuff you must be well happy well done

Yes thanks Will, it's been a long time coming

Sweet.

It was our turn for an MOT on Saturday, booked in at 10am at Jim Darrington's garage (previous winner of one the Nats' compulsory 68 Charger awards with his Viper-blue specimen ), up in deepest Bedfordshire.

Stu had already said that he'd spotted a bit of oil under the trans, which appeared to be dripping down from the torque converter inspection plate area and also some trans (power steering) oil sitting on the large castellated part of the steering box, under the adjuster screw nut

Despite this (read - not being able to spot a quick fix) we started 'her' up, on the first turn of the key I might add and set off gingerly on the 40min trip up the A1. Gingerly cos it was the first time it had turned a wheel in 5 1/2 years

Within 1/4 mile tho Stu had pulled in, complaining of what felt like a slipping trans. Strange, as we'd put the recommended amount of fluid in weeks ago. Checking the level on the dipstick, it did look low, but it's always tricky to tell what the actual level is when the botton section of the dipstick is dry but there's oil up above the full mark. Put in what oil we had but in the meantime also spotted a fuel leak in one of the original, unchanged fuel lines under the car. A pin-hole was squirting a jet of petrol up the underside of the floorpan/frame.
Not ideal when youre on the way to an MOT so we checked with Jim and he said to bring it up and we'd fix it there

So set off again and managed to get to the garage without any more stops

Not all good news tho - for most of the journey, there was a cloud of smoke/oil coming from under the car. Presumably from either the leaky trans or leaky steeing box?

Pulling into the MOT bay, it looked like someone had been shot/stabbed with the trail of red fluid being left behind.

And once under the car in the pit we could see the pesky bottom hose was still leaking water. So apart from engine oil and brake fluid, that's almost the full set of fluids leaking

Thankfully the water was an easy fix, and the petrol leak was halted with a bit of hose and a few jubilee clips, but the trans & steering box are still a problem.

Apart from that tho, Jim was able to give us the MOT

Dont want to miss out on taking it to the Pod, but we're stumped what to do about the leaks. The steering box was rebuilt a couple of years ago (havent got their name to hand) but I've heard someone had a similar problem where the people that did the work forgot to refit an o-ring. Dunno if that could be the problem with ours too? And it's a bugger to get to now everythings fitted.

And as for the trans, if the oil is coming out below the converter, from the bottom of the bellhousing, is it a seal behind the converter? Didnt really want to be removing the trans at this stage

Any ideas anyone ?




Anyhoo, some pics from yesterday.......

if the trans is overfull it might be having a Bananarama! out of the breather which is in the bellhousing, check it hot running in neautral dip it severall times if unsure get it on the lowest mark when its really hot ie burnout or staging it will be up on the full mark,
chuck some of that swell seal stuff in the trans and steer pump it will work for the nats then sort later,

good luck,

Hi Robtwin, i've just had the same problem with trans fluid leaking from under the converter, it turned out to be the converter itself where it seats in the seal, so I ended up getting a new converter, but double check that the converter seats against the flex plate properly and its not hitting the crank slightly before it meets the flexplate as this may of been my problem in the first place and it buggered the converter and seal.

cheers mas

Cannonball wrote:if the trans is overfull it might be having a Bananarama! out of the breather which is in the bellhousing, check it hot running in neautral dip it severall times if unsure get it on the lowest mark when its really hot ie burnout or staging it will be up on the full mark,
chuck some of that swell seal stuff in the trans and steer pump it will work for the nats then sort later,

good luck,

Thanks Dunc, i hope youre right about being overfilled! That would be the easiest problem to fix.
When I was following behind i noticed the oil mist didnt start appearing from under the car till after a few miles up the road. Would it take a while to start coming out of the breather? Mind you, Stu said he saw some coming from that area while it was still in the garage and had only been run in neutral

Just googled that swellseal stuff - I can only see it for sale by US vendors.

Would this Wynns version be ok? Available from Halfords, it says.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... e=shopping

Would this work if the leak is from the converter seal, as Mas suggested?