Mopar Muscle Association UK

Dave,

I am sure you are correct about using amber bulbs behind an amber lens.

The dash on the Falcon has the usual blue plastic globes and 2w bulbs. Another guy here had put blue leds in there and his explanation (he is a techie) was to do with wavelengths etc.

I tried the blue LED's but it was very blue and a bit too modern in look. The problem with the Falcon's dash lights are, dust in the blue covers, poor white reflectivity, but most importantly, the variable dimmer sucks about 2 volts out of the system, even at full on. As the dimmer wasn't working, I bypassed it and sent the full whack to the bulbs.

Using 5w bulbs is frowned on as it melts the blue globes.

I would be very interested in how you think your tail-lights look with the LED bulbs versus the normal style ?

I could do with more glow at the back of the car.

All the best

Regang your indicator setup, I always thought that was one of the top jobs on the car

I tried various similar things for the Buick, but just couldn't get it right.

As a matter of interest, I assume that the indicator has replaced the reflector, have you fitted extra red reflectors to compensate ?

All the best

The LED stop/tails i have at the moment (pictured earlier) look as if they are white but do in fact glow red (just in case anyone reading this was confused)

I have just ordered a pair of white ones to try in the front amber lights.

I didn't photograph the tail lights but I can rig one up to the battery for a photo if you want?

On the Challenger the tail/brake bulbs sit vertically in the tail lights. So the LED bulbs are being seen "side on". So they do not have a "hot spot" in the middle of the lens that they might have had looking square on.

Also the reflectors in the tail lights are just painted silver. They do not have a mirror type reflective surface.

I did glue tin foil to the backs of the turn signals to make them a bit brighter. But they face square on to the rear so would be brighter anyway.
When I tried that on the tail lights it gave a "crinkle" effect to the light rather than a smooth glow so I left them with the simple painted surface.

As far as brightness goes the brake light is fine. However the tail light is only slightly dimmer. The brightness of the tail light could be dimmed a little if needed just by putting a resistor in series with it. But it maybe that it is OK and I am just not remembering how it was before correctly.

I tell you what. I will do as RichDeb suggested and compare with a normal lamp. That way you should be able to tell if i photograph the results on a manual setting so the image is exposed the same.

Sandy wrote:As a matter of interest, I assume that the indicator has replaced the reflector, have you fitted extra red reflectors to compensate ?

Yes. I had the car painted Hemi Orange. The whole car reflects.

For some reason the MOT guys and police never notice the lack of reflectors. However they DO notice if your indicators are not legal.

If they ever mention it I could easily mount something under the rear bumper. In fact I could stick a couple on the bumper and take them off again if it was just for the MOT.

Some discussion abroad was that painting the reflectors gloss white would be better than silver, or chrome effect paint.

Here is the rational, lifted from the FalconXA GT site:-

"The "reflective" colour to use in instruments and for that matter taillights and indicators, is white. Why?
White is a refractive colour that will diffuse the light and backlight a lens whereas silver is a reflective colour that will project and cast it's light through a lens. Whenever you refurbish taillight or indicator assemblies, paint the backplate brilliant gloss white for a nice, even illumination of the lamp."

I have not quite had the courage to try it as on both my cars the tail-light assemblies are now gob-smackingly expensive.

ATB

White makes sense Sandy. I might try that.

Interesting,Sandy,never considered white. Should be able to test this with white paper cut to line the lamp housing.Better than committing to paint.

Dave wrote:Cheers Guy. I just ordered two from China. Hopefully they will not take too long to get here.

Thats a shame, I could of hand carried those back last week

I have just heard my exhaust system has arrived and is making it very hard to get through the front door. So I might have to fit that next just to get it out of the way and delay the electric job.

I think I have everything I need to put the exhaust system on now. I just hope it clears the overdrive OK.

Some welding will be required as well. Because of the cut-outs.

I will make a start after dinner. I need to put the prop shaft on first though. If Billy will let me!

Fantastic! A great looking mutt and a neat exhaust system, all in one pic

I see you got the dump pipes Dave , will these be electric.

Brutus wrote:I see you got the dump pipes Dave , will these be electric.

yes. Plus i have the controler that keeps them in sync and cuts power to them when fully open or closed to save from over torquing the motors. So instead of a momentary toggle switch i can have a 2-pole switch with "open" and "closed" positions.

Dave wrote:

Brutus wrote:I see you got the dump pipes Dave , will these be electric.

yes. Plus i have the controler that keeps them in sync and cuts power to them when fully open or closed to save from over torquing the motors. So instead of a momentary toggle switch i can have a 2-pole switch with "open" and "closed" positions.

only asked.

Bugger.

I did worry about the overdrive getting in the way of the exhaust system. However I know a stock exhaust clears so hoped the TTI system would be the same.

No chance. Not even close to fitting.

In fact i am not sure it would have fit that well even without the overdrive to be honest. Seemed a bit short unless TTI headers are a lot longer than my "Dougs".

I am going to have to cut the mufflers-forward sections into at least 4 bits each side and re-arrange them. The cross-over H-pipe will have to be in a different location too.

Hopefully i will be able to do it without changing the way the mufflers hang so that changes to the tailpipe as it comes over the axle will not be needed. But I might need to cut and twist them if the mufflers need to move.

Probably take a fair bit of time to do this. Hard work too. Good job i have a length of 3" pipe handy.

Oh well. Bananarama! happens. And happens and happens....