Mopar Muscle Association UK

I dont know if anyone saw this a few Nats back when my motor just screamed up to 6000+ in second then into third and nothing.... motor screaming but no movement at the wheels

mine did that first time out with the 493, box went down the pan and needed a rebuild a shortly after
I got Dunc to put a steel drum and low band apply valve body in when he did it for more safety...

Mines still going strong 3 years on and cars goin faster ?
AS Blue said it could be slipping a little...even though its still seems ok
so might go for a ali drum and and 4 pinion planetry gearset.

Blue what do you know about sealing the vent in the front pump housing and making the vent on the top of the tail housing
and puttting a bleed hole in the hi gear clutch pack piston, between the spring towers .....
does removing the spring on the rear servo piston and putting a spacer in its place ????
just wondered as i have seen mention of this somewhere

Steel drum would be better than ally; the friction plates wear away at the ally inner and you end up with red metalflake for trans fluid. The solid spacer in the rear servo hardens up the shift as the sprung servo acts like a damper, but this should have been done with the shift kit. At least I think that's right, don't quote me as I've only done 5hrs apprenticeship on TorqueFlites and I haven't got my text books yet cos of the Postal Strike.

Yes I know about those mods Steve! Ally drums are not streetable and I wouldn't even use one on a strip car if I could avoid it, too high maintenance.

the ally drums are not high maintenance blue, drop the pan new filter and fluid couple off times a season, but you dont see a performance increase in our type off racing so the steel one will do,

Really? the guys in the States have been telling me they are changing the fluid every 5 runs and the drums wear out fast....

Ok thanks....and idea about blocking and moving the breather in the front pump ?? i guess its to stop fluid spill if slowing down from a quick pass ??

Its not that im gonna do it Blue just like some info before i buy parts and stuff for when i pull it out
and the 4 pinion gearset

The front breather mod is mainly for use with transbrakes I think. When the trans gets hot, fluid can leak out of the front vent so it's blocked and a new vent is fitted to the tailshaft, often with a hose fitted to a puke tank mounted on the bulkhead. I've never had anyone suffering from this problem so I've never had to do it. What I do as a precaution is to use a deep trans pan but only fill it with the normal amount of oil. I've got 4 pinion planetries if you want to go that way, but to be honest I've yet to see a broken 3 pinion set, I think you'd strip the splines out before you broke the rest of it.

Hang on to that 4 pinion Blue ...how much ?
only i read that the 4 pinions are indestructable when using the ol Giggle gas too...and can handle upwards of 950 HP in a heavy car
which mine is.

Your better versed in all this voodoo, just what i read
they also recommended hardened input / output shafts

It's torque rather than HP that kills stuff. You can get all kinds of trick and expensive parts but a well prepared 727 will take a hell of a lot of abuse with mostly stock parts.

Found the article it was a mopar muscle bullet proof trans rebuild
would definately go for the 4 pinion part if its up for grabs Blue.
the rest i'll take your advice on

Can build it any way you want it mate!

my challenger 900 plus hp heavy car has a cheata valve body, ally drum, breather on the top rear off case, 3 pinion planetary, cheesegrater shell, deep pan, no other trick parts, and i aint broke it,

Dunc,whats a cheese grater shell is that the band with cooling slots in ??

Sun shell with holes drilled in it to lighten it (swiss cheese, old drag saying ).....(The sun shell goes around the planeteries in the rear.....Sun, orbiting the planets? Arse about face, but whatever....)