Mopar Muscle Association UK

Blue wrote:Finally got my junk back! heads had 1 odd valve that was longer than the rest but had a shorter installed height! That sorted, the heads needed little else. The block is bored and line honed with the BCR ally caps and ARP studs. Found the billet rear seal retainer sat a few thou. proud of the pan rail, but 10 minuates of careful work with a flat file had it sitting flush. Also had to trim about an 1/8" or so off the back cap studs as they were above the pan rail also. Next job will be to try the block in the car with the pan on, to see if I got my measurements right and make sure it clears the rack. Seems pointless pulling the motor now only to have to drop it back in for the Nats, and then pull it out again, so that will have to wait.

lookin good blue, whats up with the old retainer ??? or did you just want the billet jobbie ??? i never had a leak off the rear main following a rebuild,

hemi intakes yes

I've never had a problem with the stock cast one either, I just thought the billet one was a much nicer piece....

Blue wrote:I've never had a problem with the stock cast one either, I just thought the billet one was a much nicer piece....

fair enough mate , it does look the part

Thanks! Right, next job, need to hone this flamin' damper hub...

Out of interest Blue, how far out is the damper? In other words, pushed onto the crank, how far will you ned to Bananarama! it to bolt it up?

It seems strange that these dampers are that far out...

I had a quick measure last night and it appears the damper is actually smaller than the crank snout, didn't offer it up. The instructions say it has to be very tight to work effectively, and has to be honed to achieve an 8 thou. fit if I remember right...

An 8 thou fit? Mmmh unless my memory is completely up the creek, that means that the overall diameter of the taper needs to be heated/frozen by 8 thou to achieve an interference fit and you can't put a lot of heat into the damper, whether it's rubber or fluid damped.

Sounds like you need some liquid nitrogen!

Interesting thread though Blue, keep it going mate

Half a thou interference fit would be tight. Maybe hone to 1/2 thou then warm the damper to 90 deg C and use some plumbers freeze spray on the crank nose. Should drop on if you're quick.......

If your not in a rush to fit the damper, get hold of a tool to fit it. It's just a long stud the same thread as the crank bolt and nut. I wished I had one when I fitted mine, would have saved all that hammering.

Engine looks good by the way, what did Hauser think of the stroker kit?

Ivor wrote:An 8 thou fit? Mmmh unless my memory is completely up the creek, that means that the overall diameter of the taper needs to be heated/frozen by 8 thou to achieve an interference fit and you can't put a lot of heat into the damper, whether it's rubber or fluid damped.

I didn't think it was a tapered shaft Ivor.....

The alloy "gives" and absorbs some of the shock. It helps to prevent cap walk which is a concern over about 600bhp on a wedge type block.

the tools for putting on dampers are a double edged sword

they sound like a great idea

however with most of them you are depending at the start on about 1/4 inch of thread

i.e you can easily strip the thread from the crank.

which would be a shame as drilling re tapping that without dismantlation of the motor is nigh on impossible to do straight.

bucket of boily water and plumbers deoderant to cool the end me thinks

then use the big bolt


Dave

I have a proper damper installatiom tool with a roller bearing, it screws well into the crank, I'd have no worries about "leaning" on it. The ally caps act as a shock absorber and will help to protect the main webs in the block from cracking. They will also put up with a little detonation which would crack a stock iron cap in a high HP application. However they do little to address the problem of cap walk, that's something you have to live with on a stock block when you start making a lot of horsepower.
Mick, Hauser was quite happy with the kit, the crank specced out fine, as did the rest of it, he couldn't fault the physical appearance or the machining. The only thing he did mention was something I'd already spotted, he said the pistons were a bit sharp. I've just spent half an hour or so taking the edges off the valve reliefs with some fine emery and they are done. Any sharp edges in a combustion chamber can cause detonation, and we don't want any of that.....

I stand corrected