Mopar Muscle Association UK

Got to really....its not desirable as it is......sometime soon it will be a little Gem

Love the tech shots, that's good stuff. Can't believe he's moved the trunk floor forward too...excellent!

Thats how they recommend you do it Ivor.
Floor, inner wheel wells the lot.
Then cut outer wheel arch area and move forward 14 inches
And fill in the gaping holes
you can get the front fenders from fibreglass + in the US with the 10 inch forward shift of the arches.
The K frame shift looks nifty too, got to be easiest way and most accurate for my car....unless i can find a tube front that'll do the job

Yep. K-frame move is the way to do it and the way it was done in the early 60s.

Go for it Steve!

Got to be done Dave plans are on the GO GO GO

I think moving the Torsion bars rear support forward is the way to avoid silly prices for real / new ones...any thoughts ??

Yes. I would be looking at moving (or adding) the rear bar mounts forward to use stock length bars.

That might be possible, you'd be best off leaving the original one in 'cos that is part of the gearbox rear support. The problem you will have is fitting in another one further forward because it will end up somewhere near the back of the bellhousing, might be a bit tight for space at that point. To be honest, if it was me and I could get the right length torsion bars for 1500 bucks, the rest of the job would be a doddle, I'd do that.

Blue wrote:That might be possible, you'd be best off leaving the original one in 'cos that is part of the gearbox rear support. The problem you will have is fitting in another one further forward because it will end up somewhere near the back of the bellhousing, might be a bit tight for space at that point. To be honest, if it was me and I could get the right length torsion bars for 1500 bucks, the rest of the job would be a doddle, I'd do that.

blue i well see your point but i reckon you could leave the original supports and crossmember in, and get just the outriggers with the torsion bar holes in and fit them without the part that follows the trans tunnel, i know its supposed to be strong for the bars BUT the cookies dodge darty car has had all that tunnel section cut out and no reinforcing carried out and we know the times it ran and massive wheelis did not harm the shell/suspension etc

Assuming the original bulkhead will be cut out to bring the motor back,it should be possible to fit two new torsion bar mounts and link them with some rolled box section over the top of the bellhousing.

Engine stays in the stock location, that was the whole point of moving the front wheels forward. As I said, it might be possible to move the torsion bar mounts forward, just depends how much work you want to get into Vs spending the money on the bars. Sometimes the cheaper option works out dearer in the end is all I'm saying.

Blue , i know what your say about false economy
Dunc, thats what i was thinking....outriggers or similar

even some sort of support in the floor, tied into the roll cage ??

This is what Rich said.....
Steve
If you make a 4 door into a two door and alter the wheelbase at the same time the car will buckle at the roof. Support it at the package tray with a cherry picker.
Also make sure the doors are 63 as well because the latches are different. Also the window frames are different 63 to 64. If you need two door door jambs for a 63 I think I
can find some but I am only 50 % sure that car still exists. As far as the axle goes A torsion bar setup is the easiest. I can get it tacked in in about 3 hours. But the torsion
bars are a bitch. I had five sets made and they cost me 1500 each set and it took two years. Use 6150 steel and harden them to a 52 rockwell. Any metallurgical place in your
area can do it. Just weld up the ends and have the splines machined. Maybe you can do it cheaper than I can. Buy round bars in the correct lengths. But for your car I would
do an axle. It would be much more correct. Plus 63's have the cool roof overhang. The "Jayhawker" is a 63 with 64 sheet metal on the front. Axles are cheap but they are a lot
more work. You need a serious welder 200 amp. You have to cut the axle in half and butt weld it back together to narrow it. Plus you have to cut all the steering arms off and
weld them on to change to a cross steering setup. Also I make custom leaf springs. you can use the stock springs but they are pretty long. Then you have to mount the stock
steering box 10 inches forward. Gusset this using 1/4 inch steel plate. Those boxes move around if you are not solidly in there. You can also make your own axle using ends
of an axle with all the kingpin and bearings and brakes and just weld schedule 80 pipe in between. Instant straight tube axle. Really cool with the drum brakes. If you have
all the parts you should be able to build this car in a month.Good luck.
Rich

a month

steve i have just sold that 62-3 plymouth savoy 4 dr to richard berry, he is gonna break it maybe it could be worth you buying the torsion bar chassis sections off him??? the floors are rusty but am sure the chassis is good, he is pickin the car up thjis weekend i hope

Sounds like a plan Dunc.
the trunk floor, inner front fenders ?? if they are any good

AllKiller wrote:Sounds like a plan Dunc.
the trunk floor, inner front fenders ?? if they are any good

the inner fenders are fine, think the trunk is ok as well,
pm me a contact no i will pass it on mate