tube frame (latest update 15/08/09 )

db · Post by db » Tue Dec 23, 08 12:13 pm

I take it the new floor will be ally panels fixed to the frame?

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Tue Dec 23, 08 2:14 pm

db wrote:I take it the new floor will be ally panels fixed to the frame?

More like Steel panels fixed to the frame

TrevD · Post by **TrevD** » Tue Dec 23, 08 5:52 pm

well both of you arte technicaly wrong but db is the closest, i intend to use a material called aerolam, it is 2 thin aluminium sheets sandwiching a foam core, its extremely light and strong (its what aircraft cockpit floors are made of

) it will be lighter and stronger than a solid ali floor and as rigid as a steel floor.

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Tue Dec 23, 08 10:21 pm

DON'T park your plane at Sarfend airport over Christmas

db · Post by db » Tue Dec 23, 08 11:19 pm

...a suspicious looking man in baggage handlers overalls with what looked like tinsnips sticking out of his pocket....

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Dec 24, 08 8:49 am

You would of needed some big overalls to sneak this out. this car was built at Atlanta airport using all aviation materials available at the time and was total state of the art at all national events , chrome Molly, alloys, titanium nuts and bolts, check out how all the glass is fitted, and wieghed ready for this 1800lbs...........................

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Dec 27, 08 3:08 pm

Hi TrevD.

Fantastic work you are doing there!!!

Its ONLY Essex folks who have the BALLS to build Race cars in their Sheds!!!

Last person I knew who had this good an idea, was back in the early 80's in a shed in Ilford!!!
He cobbled together a Fuel Altered from a drawing and and a TIG welder!

I take my hat off to you very clever GUYS!

Good luck in all you DO, Bacca.

TrevD · Post by **TrevD** » Sat Dec 27, 08 5:53 pm

its not realy that clever. i do have a problem that i cant get my head round, im told that if the frame is within 1/4" its good enough as the suspension adjustments will account for this. my problem is ive been working to thousanths of an inch for over 25 years and im finding it hard not to measure it all this acurate, it took me 4 hours to get the top hoop cut and tacked in today cos i just wasnt happy with it as it was nearly 1/16" out of square. the fun will start soon as i try to get asll the suspension components sorted and aligned

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Sun Dec 28, 08 1:10 pm

Nice job Trev
Have you still got the original wheel tubs and torsion bar plates for the boot.
Mick

TrevD · Post by **TrevD** » Sun Dec 28, 08 6:12 pm

Mick
the wheel tubs went with my duster (hers were rotten) and it looks like the complete floor is going the same way, what torsion bar plates do you mean ?

TrevD · Post by **TrevD** » Sun Dec 28, 08 6:22 pm

ok latest update, the roof hoop is in ans so are the front uprights(these were the first dificult ones to do). thats the easy bits tacked together. the next bit is to get all the front and rear tubes in to hang the suspension on but before i can do that i need to make something to hold the front legs in the correct position (im glad ive got a week off work to play with it)

Rogue Trooper · Post by **Rogue Trooper** » Sun Dec 28, 08 9:33 pm

Trev nice cage work

db · Post by db » Sun Dec 28, 08 9:46 pm

TrevD wrote:its not realy that clever. i do have a problem that i cant get my head round, im told that if the frame is within 1/4" its good enough as the suspension adjustments will account for this. my problem is ive been working to thousanths of an inch for over 25 years and im finding it hard not to measure it all this acurate, it took me 4 hours to get the top hoop cut and tacked in today cos i just wasnt happy with it as it was nearly 1/16" out of square. the fun will start soon as i try to get asll the suspension components sorted and aligned

I know exactly what you mean Trev- i have exactly the same mental block, i've had to overlook a lot of inaccuracies in my frame.
The one bit i couldn't leave was the rear frame rails being different heights by 1/4"

- i could easily have compensated with the 4-link bracket mounts, it just looked so bloody awful i had to straighten them!

It's a balance i think between building as accurately as you WANT to and as accurately as you NEED to. If you cobble it together to the nearest 1/4", you'll look at it and KNOW it should be better. If you do it to the nearest thou, you'll be there FOREVER!!
I'm dying to see how you tackle the front end- that's next on my car. Is yours McPherson- type struts like mine?

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Sun Dec 28, 08 11:30 pm

Trev
There are 2 plates that the boot springs go into, they are above the boot lid on the main frame and provide tension to assist boot opening.
Mick

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Sun Dec 28, 08 11:32 pm

Trev
There are 2 plates that the boot springs go into, they are above the boot lid on the main frame and provide tension to assist boot opening, they are spot welded to the body.
Mick