Mopar Muscle Association UK

Blue, you are a life saver. Declan said that the sender supplied with the autometer unit will fit, but I just wanted to be sure. Nice new z series water temp, oil pressure, fuel level (not that the sender actually works at the moment) and 5" monster tach are en route as we speak!

Thats the way to do it

Bloody hell, I've done something right!

Declan did me proud with a box of autometer stuff arriving at 7am this morning (I'm a bloody photographer, I don't get up until 10!). Oil pressure, water temp and a tacho the size of a catering size can off coffee with a shift light like the edison lighthouse.

I stuck both gauges in and both work fine. The car is running at idle (stationary for 20 minutes in 18 centigrade weather) at 185F no problem. I looks like Neil's stirling work on the rad, the electric pump and fan (thnaks to tony at kenlowe) have finally come together. No test drive yet, but tomorrow will be the final litmus test on whether by silly fixing of things that aren't broke has paid dividends. At least my next article will have a happy ending.....unlike the seat covers, which is a different story!

Tomorrow the 5" monster tacho gets fitted. I'm struggling toi get it on the dash top, so I was thinking of putting it under the dash top overhand in front of the non functional stereo. Anyone got any better ideas?

Top of the dash is best IMO.a bracket that brings the tach closer to the driver giving you more clearance from the screen ???
Or a smaller Tach??

I got sent the 5" version, with shift light, which frankly blots out most of my visability on the off side. I think mounting under the dash top is going to be a better option. Has anyone else installed one this big on a b-body ?

The other possibility is top of drivers windsheild post, run wires down the pillar behind trim,
Out of the way, but close to Eyeline, unless you are very vertically challenged
Dont worry you wont miss the shift light when it comes on 8)
Mines down by the ashtray and I can see that and the counter easily without takin my eyes off the road.

I actually ended up sticking it above the trans tunnel and put the shift light on the dash. However, my woes continue with over heating.

I had the car running yesterday for a good 15-20 minutes at idle, in warm weather, and it held a constant 180-190f throughout. However, after a morning spent washing and waxing the beastie, I thought I really ought to bite the bullet and take her for a spin. I get the car to temperature, the thermostat opens, the fan turns on, the pump is pumping, and the temperature settles as before. I roll her out onto the road and within five minutes of doing 30-40MPH the gauge is at almost 210f. I stop the car and the temperature starts to drop. I also notice that the gear changes are long and a little vague and at one point the car seems to be hovering between two gears, making it sort of stutter a bit. Sticking it in first and changing up to second is fine, but putting it in drive and everything seems to be fairly odd!

Given that the engine is running strong, no smoke pouring out of the back end, nice clean oil, etc and nothing happens at idle, can I assume that there is something big gone plonk in the gearbox which is making the oil get hot, or just that its putting a lot of strain on the engine?

Answers on a post card!

Gearbox problems could be down to the kickdown linkage, is it connected? If it is you need to check that it's correctly adjusted.

It does kick down, but would the linkage explain the fact that the engine almost boils when the car is in gear?

Oh, and just an other thing that I may or may not have mentioned earlier in this thread. When I had the old gauge in the car I still manged to get it to settle at idle at what appeared to be around 180f, which was probably in fact more like 130f! so the fan/pump/rad combo are well up to keeping everything cool, its not as if the whole deal is working flat out to keep things at the right temperature.

Neil mentioned something to me about his old RR boiling over and he said it was down to a 'reverse manual valve body' or something like that. I understand the principal of a manual valve body, but I don't know what a reverse one is, if I have one, and why it would make the blindest bit of difference to the temperature.

I've said it before and I'll say it again (and again, and again)........HEEEEEEELLLLLLLP!

calvers, it's was the manual bit!!! which means you change down yourself, so me being a newbe and stupid back then i forgot most of the time.. so i'm cruising around thinking this is great but don't it get hot....

doh

My car is reverse pattern manual shift with 3.55's out back, never gets warm, shfts like a demon so I doubt that sort of set up would do any harm to yours, although if you have a kick down I doubt yours is either!

An outside chance is the block may be silted up, don't laugh I have had it before, changed everything with no result, pulled the core plugs and the block was silted up to the middle of them! raked it out/caustic soda/ lots of flushing = nice cool motor again!

Do You have low gears in that car ? 3.90 4.10 or the like,
As ive said before the water speed is out running in coming air speed, and thus, the water aint cooling the engine.
This happened to me and made my already hot motor undrivable for more than 5 mins at a time.
Is the voltage rising to the water pump when driving and making the pump work harder and faster causing the same problem.

Change that 'Stat to a lower 160.
Do you still have the modified 'Stat in the car?
You need to slow the water down not speed it up.
the modified stat might be helping to increase water speed while driving.

Ditch the electric pump and stick the stock pump and fan on it, keep the electric fan on for Emergencies

and sounds like Blues right again, your kick down is not set right or you have play in the linkage,....
Does it take a while for the car to change up in DRIVE ( car seems to rev quite high, but not excessively, before hitting next gear).
Or very quick and soft changes accelerating, and almost non existant down changes ?

...or the band maybe loosing grip (unlikely)

Additionally if the pump aint a Meziere or CSI electric pump chances are it wont last a month or two anyway with regular driving.