Edelbrock heads for the street. Worth it?

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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

www.powerforpeanuts.com

dermott can do yer heads for ya.

don't charge much
machine shop in his back garden
been at it since 1968

reames out the valve guide
removes lump in port
preses in some new guides

fits new hardends seats

cleans up the transition into the bowl

3 angle job

you'll need to grind in valves
he'll push for you to go to a thinner stemmed valve.......


ferrea 5000 series or 6000 series chevy 2.02 inch valves, or the valves from the eddy heads would do the trick which are chevy 2.02 inch valves with stem 5/16th or 11/32ths can't remeber which i.e thinner than mopar 3/8 inch stem and have a nice swirl

just check you get the right stem length

if you get crane multi fit collets with the thinner Inner diameter for the chevy sized valve stem but the same 7 degree taper and outside diameter as your orginal Mopar sized retainers, job is easier.

if you can't get right stem length you can get collets that are offset in their mounting up or down and you can combine that with retainers that are offset up or down if you need to in order to keep the seat pressure and installed height of the springs correct. but remember longer valves will impact rocker geometry

http://www.cranecams.com/userfiles/file/348-357.pdf


anyway you end up with
1) some nice thick and robust collets
2) don't have the expense of a new set of retainers with a smaller hole in the middle and the usual cross refenencing to see if they will fit your springs.

get the valve stem seals off him as well, he'll size the valve guide top to a common OEM seal so they cost nout to replace but are exactly the same in design and operation as the "performance seals" from summit et al.


dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
GJUK
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Post by GJUK »

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MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

Thanks to all for latest suggestions. I can see the logic of having the J heads done. They came rebuilt and skimmed already with new hardware so i may just go that route over winter.
ive pmd one of our guys about heads, but Les Jon hasn't mentioned any spare heads, he probably has them buried somewhere in deepest Norfolk waiting for an unassuming small block to be abused :lol:
MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

Dave999, thanks for the tip. it may be that some of my existing parts can be transferred across to new valves if possible. the existing valves can be used to determine correct length unless i skim heads further to up compression.
Mick
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Post by Mick »

To be honest, i haven't read all this but i like Eddy heads. The casting quality is good and they're a good stock replacement easy fit head, that out of the box will flow more than most ported stock heads. Plus the weight saving from the right place and the fact that if you break them, they can be repaired.
Go for it Miles.
:thumbright:
MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

Hi Mick, my only concern is the build quality out of the box and how much needs to be spent to straighten them out. What's your thoughts as I know you've worked on these heads?
Mick
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Post by Mick »

The only work i've done on my heads was changing the valve springs and cleaning one of the chambers up when my old motor let go.My thoughts are buy them from a proper cylinder head guy and he will address any factory issues like tight valve guides etc, i would also have him mill them to get the comp up to a usable level. I got mine from MCH in Detroit but other people sell them, Hughes, PRH etc.
It's a shame you haven't got a BB because John S has got a stonking set of Edelbrocks for reasonable money, they ran high 10's on a full weight RR.
Mick
MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

OK Mick, I looked up MCH Detroit but cant find anything.
I the meantime, these are the pistons I have installed;

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/pistons- ... -bore.html
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Adrian Worman
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Post by Adrian Worman »

There fine to use with those Eddy heads Miles, they're not pop-ups and they'll be at zero deck at their highest point so you'll end up with almost perfect 0.038"-0.040" squish clearance with a common gasket.
The smaller chamber will help C.R. but the material allows you to run up to 11:1 quite happily.
You could always order a Cometic gasket off Turnip if you want to go thicker, say 0.051", I'm doin that on my stroker cos the piston comes 0.008" out the deck.
Jesus built my hot rod

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65 Barracuda
Guy
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Post by Guy »

Here you go Miles link to MCH

http://www.moderncylinderhead.com/
Guy
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Post by Guy »

As Ade says those heads will work just fine on your motor and should wake it up nicely :thumbright:
MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

Thanks Guy/s and thanks for the link.
I've been told the pistons were not quite at deck height when the engine was built. If I go ahead with Eddys I will buy the head gasket after i've measured the piston clearance with the heads off the motor.
Mick
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Post by Mick »

Nice pistons. Check them all Miles and make a note of each cylinder, i just bring them to TDC and stick a feeler gauge under it.
What cam is in the car ?
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Jon Connolly
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Post by Jon Connolly »

Miles

From memory ?? sb head gaskets go from 0.028 to 0.050 thicknesses. Maybe others now ?

If you are not decking or prepping the block it may be risky going for a really thin gasket.

You could always go for a thicker gasket for a good seal and then mill the heads to get the cr you want

Run it past Billydooo see what he thinks

:thumbright:
9.844 @ 134.04 ... Smallblock Valiant + NOS

10.169 @ 130.17 ... Smallblock Dodge Ram pick up truck - motor only.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvwC1fd0 ... 8Z96U8t0LQ
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Jon Connolly
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Post by Jon Connolly »

p.s.

Ade is talking pistons out of the block with a thick gasket. Yours are down the hole ...


:thumbright:
9.844 @ 134.04 ... Smallblock Valiant + NOS

10.169 @ 130.17 ... Smallblock Dodge Ram pick up truck - motor only.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvwC1fd0 ... 8Z96U8t0LQ
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