Coil....

Dave81 · Post by **Dave81** » Tue Dec 16, 14 8:30 pm

Cheers chaps!

Charger · Post by **Charger** » Wed Dec 17, 14 9:43 am

re; orange box, to ballast or not to ballast

do it …

[see attachments]

[quote] if you’re installing electronic ignition on your Mopar, whether factory or aftermarket, you can bypass the ballast resistor without any ill effects, if you’re still running points, leave it in place to do it’s job

don’t do it ...

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Coi ... mance.aspx

[quote] When using the Blaster Coil with a points or stock style distributor, a 0.8 Ohm ballast resistor must be installed in-line of the positive wire. Failure to use a ballast resistor could result in personal injury or component failure.

conclusion; inconclusive, so don’t do it

I’ve got parts for swap to HEI, just ordered some Motorola bullet plugs

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Dec 17, 14 11:23 am

The "don't do it" is with a points type distributor. The points will burn out. That is why.

Dave81 · Post by **Dave81** » Wed Dec 17, 14 12:54 pm

Thanks for the article stuff Si!

Charger · Post by **Charger** » Wed Dec 17, 14 1:23 pm

Dave wrote:The "don't do it" is with a points type distributor. The points will burn out. That is why.

ok good

still confused

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Dec 17, 14 3:09 pm

Charger wrote:
Dave wrote:The "don't do it" is with a points type distributor. The points will burn out. That is why.
ok good

still confused

The other reason for using a low voltage coil is to make the contact points last a lot longer. Didn't think to mention it because no-one in their right mind would be using contact points these days.

It might help to remind you how a coil works.

Remember that a coil is like a transformer. It takes a low voltage in the primary circuit and creates a high voltage in the secondary circuit that sparks your plugs.

But to induce a voltage in the secondary circuit you either need to move the wires in the magnetic field (like the alternator does as it rotates) OR you make the magnetic field strength increase or decrease.

The faster you move the wires in a magnetic field, the bigger the voltage induced which is why an alternator needs a voltage regulator to stop the output going over 14.5 volts.

Same if you change the strength of the magnetic field. The faster it grows or decreases, the bigger the voltage output.

So in a car the coil works by being connected to the battery and a magnetic field builds up in the primary.
Now because the build of that field is on the slow side (what we call "dwell) there is not enough voltage induced in the secondary to spark the plug.

But when the points open (or the transistor stops conducting in E.I.) the circuit to the primary coil is broken and the magnetic field collapses almost instantly, creating a very high voltage at the plug and you get a big spark.

So the Electronic Ignition Module is just breaking the 12v feed to the coil. However with the old contact points it is mechanical so the two faces of the points have to part company and battery voltage (which is actually 14.5v remember not 12v) is enough to make quite a strong spark between the contact points.

This does two things;

a) It means the connection to the coil is not broken cleanly so you don't get as good a spark at the plug.

b) The spark eats the contacts by transferring metal from one surface to the other. Making a hole on one side of the points and a sharp peak of material grows on the other. This reduces the spark gap and therefore the amount of "Dwell" the primary circuit gets to build the coil magnetic field up in the first place.

In any case this is all a pointless exercise (pun intended). I have no idea why we are even talking about it. The engine and timing need adjusting. END OF.

Do that but fit the HEI module before because if afterwards you should check the timing again.
I have no idea what the point of this thread is? There is obviously nothing wrong with the resistor or coil.

Charger · Post by **Charger** » Wed Dec 17, 14 4:25 pm

Dave wrote:I have no idea what the point of this thread is?

it started about coils

but got onto running orange boxes with or without a ballast resistor

I agree lets forget about points

orange box + elec dizzy + blaster 2 coil

can you run without ballast?? that is the question

the article posted above suggests you can

but Dave999 pointed out that running the coil at 12v would increase current draw on the orange box terminal 5 switcher

causing it to run hotter

possibly reducing it’s life

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Dec 17, 14 4:45 pm

Yeah I said that too. First I think before Dave 999 edited his post.

But why do it?

He is trying to see if changing the coil is causing the slight misfire he has when cold. Pointless exercise (pun again

) if the carb and timing are not optimised. And he has a HEI module to fit anyway I think?

Dave81 · Post by **Dave81** » Wed Dec 17, 14 8:19 pm

Dave wrote:Yeah I said that too. First I think before Dave 999 edited his post.

But why do it?

He is trying to see if changing the coil is causing the slight misfire he has when cold. Pointless exercise (pun again ) if the carb and timing are not optimised. And he has a HEI module to fit anyway I think?

Keep in mind we are not all seasoned pros, so Its all useful info if you ask me!

I know that the coil is not the cause of the issue, but as I've changed everything else I thought may as well get rid of the manky looking one and put a fresh one in.

Point of this thread was asking where to get a correct rated coil to fit the stock Mopar ignition in Blighty........don't want to have to import everything (££££) and couldn't find a UK based one searching the web!

So asked the Q.........Expected 2 replys and job done and it was..........It was proposed that I fit the HEI stuff........and well that's how we get here!

I've taken on board the advice, and not touched anything......

Thanks for the help........

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Dec 18, 14 8:40 am

It's winter Dave. You are not the only one bored and looking for things to do on your car.

Dave81 · Post by **Dave81** » Thu Dec 18, 14 1:03 pm

Dave wrote:It's winter Dave. You are not the only one bored and looking for things to do on your car.

Must be boring having modern muscle where you get mid 20's all day and no 40 year old wiring issues..........You don't even get tin worm!!

Time to paint the callipers again!!!!

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Dec 18, 14 2:42 pm

Err 13.1 seconds thank you.

And yes. It's time to paint the brake callipers again.

I already painted bits of the engine plastic.

Well what else can I do?

Dave81 · Post by **Dave81** » Thu Dec 18, 14 8:49 pm

Dave wrote:Err 13.1 seconds thank you.

And yes. It's time to paint the brake callipers again.

I already painted bits of the engine plastic. Well what else can I do?

I was talkin MPG, not 1/4 times......

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Dec 18, 14 8:52 pm

Dave - Does the hair on your back all stick up due to static when you brush past the 'Vette????

Mossy68 · Post by **Mossy68** » Thu Dec 18, 14 9:25 pm

Pete wrote:Dave - Does the hair on your back all stick up due to static when you brush past the 'Vette????