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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 9:57 am
by Pete
What set-up has Jerry got, I bet he has put some thought into it...........
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 12:17 pm
by Chris1990
Ive found this kit. Ive been recommended it by year one as they told me the kit I linked earlier won't fit.
Can anyone comment on this kit?
https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/dk65p
Think I'll buy it as long as it'll work
Thanks
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 12:47 pm
by terryr
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 12:54 pm
by Dave81
Whatever you do MAKE SURE you get a shipped quote before you buy!
Both Year One and Mancin do great stuff but the shipping charges are eye watering when compared to others!
I've had a $5 rubber grommet cost £25 to my door.......so be warned!
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 1:00 pm
by Dave81
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 1:50 pm
by RobTwin
We converted our 63 Polara (B-body) to Manual front discs from manual drums all round, as used an SSBC kit. We got them to deliver it to a local post office while we were over there, and brought it back in hand luggage, so didn't have to suffer shipping costs
It's not a whole bunch better than the drums tho - still leaves a bit to be desired, but a bit more tweaking with the adjustable proportioning valve might help.
At the time it was a toss-up between them and MP (Master Power, not Mopar Performance) Brakes, but MP calipers would only fit with 15" wheels and we wanted the choice of using our original 14" and the 15's we also had.
The other difference was the bore diameter of the master cylinder - cant remember the specifics - but the wheel diameter was what swung it in SSBCs favour for us at the time. At the time we couldn't get conclusive advice as to which bore size would be better
In hindsight, the different MC diameter (larger or smaller?) might have given a bit more braking power/feel.
Here's the MP kits for your car:
http://www.mpbrakes.com/front-brake-con ... end-series
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 2:00 pm
by Dave999
narrower the bore
the further the peddle travels
the more feel and progressive application you have
SSBC used to provide a ford sized master which was too fat
also charylser had 2 hole positions on the brake peddle
one for boosted and one for not boosted
get the wrong one and life is no fun
nout wrong with unboosted brakes if you try hard enough.
just alters how hard you have to press no impact on braking efficiency
Dave
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 2:33 pm
by Dave999
looks like it will
however one has to ask why year one put it in its B body section
i'd check with SSBC which kit fits then choose the seller with the best deal
its in the summit list i posted i think
Dave
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 2:39 pm
by Dave999
SSBC do 3 kits
2 front disk kits 1 for power OE power brakes and one for OE non power brakes
i.e a kit specific to your firewall for the master cylinder mounting
and other kit that seems cheaper
and i don't know why
application guide on each products page
this page
http://ssbrakes.com/c-624171-vehicle-sp ... ducts.html
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 7:21 pm
by Chris1990
massive thanks to everyone for all the help, especially Dave999 and Dave81. looks like the SSBC kits are going to be my best option, although they dont seem to include a servo, but im sure i can email them to include that, as far as shipping goes i think im going to get shafted either way. Hopefully ill get them soon and post pics of the progress. Again thanks everyone
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 8:41 pm
by db
Good luck with it!
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 15 10:18 pm
by Mick70RR
I fitted an SSBC disc brake kit to the Road Runner and to be honest the brakes were worse. Tried a few different pads and they improved a bit but still crap. The master cylinder they supply has a 1 1/8" bore and you can't get enough pressure on the pedal. Changed it for a 15/16" bore master cylinder off a 72 Dart I think and they were a lot better but the pedal almost went to the floor. In the end I fitted a Master Power servo kit and re-fitted the 1 1/8" bore master cylinder. Now I have pretty good brakes.
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 15 11:32 am
by Dave999
Chris1990 wrote:massive thanks to everyone for all the help, especially Dave999 and Dave81. looks like the SSBC kits are going to be my best option, although they dont seem to include a servo, but im sure i can email them to include that, as far as shipping goes i think im going to get shafted either way. Hopefully ill get them soon and post pics of the progress. Again thanks everyone
don't get shafted get Fentoned
speak with RONFENTON on here via private message
he runs STS imports and usually has a continer being filled in florida with Trucks and cars and stuff (jackets, skateboards,,native american art, wings, doors, screens balljoints etc)
how he calculates his shipping costs i don't know but in a fight over what is the NICE way to work it out with a man from TNT or UPS Ron would win.
if ya stuck PM me and i'll send you his email
or look up STS on the interweb don't forget to mention you are in the MMA
Dave
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 15 12:09 pm
by Steve
Morning Chris and welcome to the MMA matey!! Great club with lots of banter and TONS of VERY knowledgeable and experienced Mopar guys to help you enjoy your new car. Cant wait to see the pics!!!
The drums on my Polara work very well for what I use the car for so they suit me fine. One thing that is very important on your 65 is that it is probably running a single circuit system and you really should convert it to a dual circuit system. Basically, the old system has all four brake lines fed from one reservoir in the master cylinder. If you were unlucky enough to develop a leak in just one pipe, you will lose all of your braking apart from the emergency/parking brake. In a dual circuit system, the front brakes are separate from the rear, ie the rear brakes are fed by one (front) reservoir in the MC and the fronts are fed by the rear reservoir. If you spring a leak in the rears, you still have the front brakes and vice versa....much safer and was mandatory on cars from 68 on.
Its an easy conversion ( I did it so it must be
) and almost any period dual circuit MC will work. You wont need to run the pipes through a new block as you dont have a brake warning light on the dash. Just use the original block, remove the rear pipe from it and blank it, then make a new rear pipe and run it straight to the front reservoir on the MC. Then, just make up a new pipe and run it from the rear reservoir to the top of the brass block and you re done. .... Much safer
You might find that doing this, fitting new flexi hoses front and rear, bleeding the system and adjusting everything properly will transform your braking....worth a try maybe unless you are dead set on discs.
Lots of other stuff you can do to make her more reliable etc but you will get the idea soon and you will really start to learn stuff from asking and researching.....its great fun.
Pics a must and good luck!!
Cheers Steve
PS....as others have said...Ron at STS is the way forward for shipping big stuff. If you dont, you wil get rammed sideways by USPS and our customs
