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Posted: Fri Aug 05, 16 11:41 am
by fin170703
I really cant get my head around how it works.
Posted: Fri Aug 05, 16 12:37 pm
by fin170703
Ive put an electrical tester on the switch and its showing a constant circuit...
SO I'm thinking you're right Pete, the shuttle is jammed, blocking the rears
Anyone know where I could get a new distribution block ?
Posted: Fri Aug 05, 16 12:38 pm
by sharpie
fin170703 wrote:I really cant get my head around how it works.
having just read entire thread i think you should have called it Bleeding Brake Issues instead
Posted: Fri Aug 05, 16 12:44 pm
by fin170703
Posted: Fri Aug 05, 16 4:36 pm
by Dave999
as far as I am aware the pressure differential valve should stay in the middle and the dash light should be off
if the dash light is on. its jammed at one end and the metal nipple in the end of brake warning light switch is not in the little dip its pressing against the end of the shuttle, while its other end is blocking front or rear circuit
the proportion valve I'd expect to allow normal flow at low pressure but slowly block off flow as pressure increases
they are all a bit rubbish as they all depend on a spring and it will compress at a certain force applied
you can get a 68-72 valve combo on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-B-body-Ch ... 3t&vxp=mtr
not quite the same but would work as you have the dual master cylinder
see the parts book diag on the listing
Dave
Posted: Sat Aug 06, 16 7:55 am
by fin170703
That's great Dave thank you
Ive messed around with the unit now, trying to see how it works, so I'm not even that confident about putting it back in (even if it is fine, which it isn't)
Like Pete said, I'm sure the shuttle is jammed. I spoke to that wayne 'the Ram man' guy who is meant to be a Mopar brake guru and he said the shuttles do stick sometimes and the best way to try and unseize is to open the front bleed nipples wide open, and stamp on the brakes hard
Decent old car show down here on Sunday, so a bit disappointed, but best to get it right
