Posted: Sun May 25, 08 1:35 pm
Love that cut and weld 
You got a chain cutter
You got a chain cutter
What's a chain cutter?
A 4.5 inch angle grinder is what I have. Which reminds me. I need more cutting discs.
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Dave Robsons Challenger R/T
Page 23 of 76
Posted: Sun May 25, 08 4:16 pm
Posted: Sun May 25, 08 4:30 pm
Posted: Sun May 25, 08 4:31 pm
Well done on remembering the flanges
I would have forgot and had to cut the pipes again.
I would have forgot and had to cut the pipes again.
Posted: Sun May 25, 08 6:24 pm
That would make a neater job of it. Thanks Blue.
Too late now of course.
Posted: Sat May 31, 08 7:01 pm
4 hours work on the exhaust today and not a lot to show for it. But I only have 18 inches to get to the muffler.
However there is going to be a tricky angle for that bit. I am in two minds about the positioning and angle of the mufflers.
However there is going to be a tricky angle for that bit. I am in two minds about the positioning and angle of the mufflers.
Posted: Sat May 31, 08 7:33 pm
Looking very neat, does it look like them electronic open headers seal properly, as the choke cable ones never do.
might get a pair of the electric ones.
might get a pair of the electric ones.
Posted: Sat May 31, 08 8:58 pm
i want some elece opening valves
good gadget dave
good gadget dave
Posted: Sat May 31, 08 9:11 pm
Looking at that last photo I just noticed I haven't put those last two transmission crossmember bolts in yet. I keep forgetting about those. 
I wish I could work a bit faster too. Time is running out.
I wish I could work a bit faster too. Time is running out.
Posted: Sat May 31, 08 11:06 pm
Just leave it like that, Dave 
Em, what's the big jubilee clip holding the GV together ??
Em, what's the big jubilee clip holding the GV together ??
Posted: Sun Jun 01, 08 8:48 am
And here was me thinking my memory had gone bad.Sandy wrote:
Em, what's the big jubilee clip holding the GV together ??
You have asked that before Sandy.
It is a belt and braces job on the rear seal. It must come out a bit to easily for their liking.
Posted: Sun Jun 01, 08 8:53 am
You know, I thought I had asked before after posting it 
I guess I am still amazed that such a lash up job is still on the car 
Hope you make more progress today, but what a pain to have to do it.
I just laugh when I read American forums talking about buying 'merican parts for your 'merican car when half of what they sell always requires 'modifications' to fit.
Best of luck.
I guess I am still amazed that such a lash up job is still on the car
Hope you make more progress today, but what a pain to have to do it.
I just laugh when I read American forums talking about buying 'merican parts for your 'merican car when half of what they sell always requires 'modifications' to fit.
Best of luck.
Posted: Wed Jun 04, 08 3:02 pm
Did you ever get to do a bulb/LED comparison with the tail lights, Dave ?
Posted: Wed Jun 04, 08 3:08 pm
Further to that, Dave, I had this email yonks ago from a guy who has a Landau (luxury two door Ford hardtop). He is an electronic whiz, does stage lighting and stuff.
His comments may be of interest/use.
"With LED's there are lamps avilable which plug directly into the existing socket (see pic).
I tried some on the Landau with mixed results. Yes they wre brighter, but, they have a 20 degree beam angle and so put a definate blob of light only in the middle of the red rear light lens. The Fresnel lenses on the red perspex filters are designed to focus a filament lamp (radiating in all directions) to a parallel beam. So off centre where theres no light in the 20 degree beam the lenses look dull and unlit. I'm going to get around this basically by making a flat PCB which fits behind the lens, cover it in red LEDs on two circuits. One for side lights one fore brake lights. Run one circuit at a much higher current (20mA) than the side light one (5mA).
Another thing to remember is that on older cars the flash rate is set by a bimetal strip type of flasher controller. The rate dependent upon the load, lose a lamp and it flashes quicker. With LEDs the current they draw is so small it wont even warm the bimetal strip and so wont flash. You'll need to use one of the modern 3 terminal relays which have a timer chip in them to set the rate regardless of load. Thats whats in the Landau since the bimetal can gave up (bad contacts)"
For his side marker lights he made up a 10 led set up of 20mA LEDs (see pics)
His comments may be of interest/use.
"With LED's there are lamps avilable which plug directly into the existing socket (see pic).
I tried some on the Landau with mixed results. Yes they wre brighter, but, they have a 20 degree beam angle and so put a definate blob of light only in the middle of the red rear light lens. The Fresnel lenses on the red perspex filters are designed to focus a filament lamp (radiating in all directions) to a parallel beam. So off centre where theres no light in the 20 degree beam the lenses look dull and unlit. I'm going to get around this basically by making a flat PCB which fits behind the lens, cover it in red LEDs on two circuits. One for side lights one fore brake lights. Run one circuit at a much higher current (20mA) than the side light one (5mA).
Another thing to remember is that on older cars the flash rate is set by a bimetal strip type of flasher controller. The rate dependent upon the load, lose a lamp and it flashes quicker. With LEDs the current they draw is so small it wont even warm the bimetal strip and so wont flash. You'll need to use one of the modern 3 terminal relays which have a timer chip in them to set the rate regardless of load. Thats whats in the Landau since the bimetal can gave up (bad contacts)"
For his side marker lights he made up a 10 led set up of 20mA LEDs (see pics)
Posted: Wed Jun 04, 08 4:16 pm
The LED bulbs I fitted to the rear have some of the LEDs pointing to the sides and back slightly to give a better all-round glow.
The white stop/tails I just got for the front amber park/turn signals are forward facing (but so is the bulb position and are as briight as hell. I tested one and had purple spots in front of my eyes for 5 mins after.
I stopped work in the electrics so I could sort the exhaust out. Once the exhaust is on I can route the wires that have to avoid the hot pipes and then I can get on with the rest of the electrics. I don't have time to mess about with comparisons on the Chally as I would need to connect up the battery and with wires half done it might be risky.
I could try the three types I have in the Neon though. I just had one stop light go off anyway so need to replace the bulb.
The white stop/tails I just got for the front amber park/turn signals are forward facing (but so is the bulb position and are as briight as hell. I tested one and had purple spots in front of my eyes for 5 mins after.
I stopped work in the electrics so I could sort the exhaust out. Once the exhaust is on I can route the wires that have to avoid the hot pipes and then I can get on with the rest of the electrics. I don't have time to mess about with comparisons on the Chally as I would need to connect up the battery and with wires half done it might be risky.
I could try the three types I have in the Neon though. I just had one stop light go off anyway so need to replace the bulb.